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Not yet. Buddy told me last week he was going out of town, and to try for 27/28th. But haven’t heard anything in over a week now. Ad is still up, so I’m not worried.
I’ll be heading to my local parts store to get a quote on all the brake parts I want to replace before I order online. Try to shop local when I can, but I saved hundreds on the ebay wheel bearings on the BigRunner.
Ordering
- T-100 Brake Booster (1-1/16”)
- T-100 Calipers (S13WB casting)
- T-100 rotors (291mm diameter)
- brake pads
- T-100 dual diaphragm booster
- Replacement flex rubber lines Front/rear
- Stock ‘86 rear wheel cylinders & shoes & spring kit
plan to delete LSPV and install manual prop valve all in one go. Hooray for winter shutdown!
Was in Canadian Tire of Orangeville and saw the same welding kit on sale. Took most of my will power to walk past it.
The girls love being in Truckee, we’re a minimum 1-hour from any family members. So far they’re pretty good for the first 2-hours, but anything further is met with disappointment if we aren’t at Disney. We drove to Florida in January, and set the benchmark for payoffs at the end of a roadtrip haha.
Thanks Evan! I see your point, parts guys see so many hard to tell exactly what comes through. Pass/Fail judgment on whether or not cores are present is a much easier call to make quickly
I’ve bought a clutch and flywheel off Rock Auto for Purple-ee, and some fuel parts for Redee. But never anything with a core charge.
Glad you haven’t needed any repairs since the safety.
I hear you on just driving something, that wss the relief I got with the Taco 5.5 years ago. Just put gas in and go. It had been a while.
Oh man that’s a great gift! Serious price break too. I was looking at that welder in the flyer last week, but couldn’t pull the trigger on it. Let me know how it works out for you.
Mark, I consider the “Season over” when the toys get packed up for hibernation. For my bike that was the day after the collar bone incident haha.
Evan, if your gauge sender is mounted in the rad hose, it could be reading the cold side of the thermostat (radiator temp) rather than the hot side of thermostat being fed from the cylinder head (engine temp).
The gauge looks awesome, making good use of the smallest storage space in any dashboard I’ve come across.
I had a cheapie gauge mounted to the steering column plastic cover. It was out of the way of knees/hands, but still able to read it through the steering wheel.
I believe the rear heater if in stock configuration gets hot coolant from the cylinder head and feeds it back to the block. To be honest, I forget how the front heater is plumbed into the coolant circuit. But I always had hotter and faster heat out of the rear heater, especially after my thermostat failed open in January of 2010. Brrrrr.
Mark, yea I’m trying to make a mid-week run. Weekends are booked up with family stuff. The Seller is suggesting the week after christmas, I’ll be on plant shutdown supervising my girls. Think the girls and I will make a 1/2 day trip out of it, pack snacks, snowsuits and a disney movie.
That’s too funny your gauge failed HOT. on 4Runneree I only ever saw the temp gauge lift off COLD once or twice. Possible I could dig up a picture from the first time I saw it move from Cold to Warm. It was that astonishing.
Where’d you mount the gauge?
Hey Mark, thanks for the shotgun offer. Biggest trouble I’m having is finding trouble to go driving for 4-5 hours. Got a year-end bonus at work today which will cover the cost, but December sucks for finding me-time to do stuff like this.
I work an afternoon shift next week (4:30pm-1am), trying to arrange with seller a meeting before 1pm.
*kijiji details from prev page*
CKSA12
Brand: ARB Air Flow: 19.7LPM @ 200kPa
Duty Cycle: 35% at 72 Deg. Fahrenheit
Hardware Included: Yes
Installation: Mounted
Maximum Load: 100psi
Mount Included: No
Pressure Switch Included: Yes
