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Last night in The Shop, Matt scraped the last of the gasket off the Honda case.
At work yesterday I used the arbor press to push out the driven clutch shaft and roller bearing out. Quick pick brought the seal out of the bore. Matt now has both seals in his pocket to source locally, and then the scooter can go back together.
The seal is unobtainable, so we’ll have to RTV this back together.Attachments:
The new rad hoses and fuel filter have arrived at my local Davenports for pickup today, hopefully tonight I can throw them all in and keep plugging away on the cooling system.
Last night i determined that my Princess auto flare kit is not strong enough to add a single male flare to the OEM Fuel hard line, so I’ll prolly just add an extra high-pressure hose clamp for redundancy (safety).Worked on Redees cooling system last night. I unboxed and test fit the new HD rad, then decided it fit so well I sent the bolts home. This rad is gorgeous, 2” thick, all aluminum, and appears to be a perfect fit. Unfortunately it came with additional output bungs welded to the bottom, so Ill just loop a hose between them to close that bypass. In the future i could use it for hot water system, or reintroduce the rear heater…but Redee is a summer machine so rear heat not a priority.
Today I ordered new Upper and lower rad hoses because they looked original and kinda swollen. Last night when i pulled the old hoses I cleaned corrosion off the hose inlets to the motor. The upper hose will be a couple days to arrive, so Ill keep working elsewhere in cooling system. Perhaps the heater core plumbing. Basically I have all the hoses and bits I need, just have to rearrange and shorten them accordingly.
Hopefully this system will be buttoned up this week.I’ll move onto the power steering after. Really I just need to get the high pressure hose flared with the proper fitting for the first gen steering gear. Prolly just gonna harvest the fitting off the power steering hose I had mattered to the SBC power steering pump.
Yesterday in The Shop, truckee got some attention.
I successfully replaced the serpentine belt and idler bearings, hardest part was not breaking the bolts that hold the “skid plate” in place. I bought the replacement parts as a kit from Gates in May 2021… so i guess they were over due.
Next up I rotated the tires, cleaned the mating surfaces of the hub and rims. My rims are cruising away badly, likely replace them with my next set of tires.
I then moved onto servicing the brakes to reduce freeplay and vibration. I flushed about 1L of fresh fluid through the rear brake cylinders.
Went to the front pass side and within about 1 minute i broke off the bleeder screw. 🤬🤬. I voted against repairing that and/or making it worse because I don’t have a new screw here in house. So I pulled the brake pins out, cleaned and re-greased both sides.
Last order of buisness, crack a beer and tidy up. LOTS of spilt brake fluid to clean up, used 1/4 bag of absorbant to tidy. I have to buy a better universal fit attachment to James’ power bleeder, think I spilt more than I flushed through.I put an hour into Matts scooter last night in The Shop.
Over the course of an hour we drank s couple beers, are some chips and replace the rear “wheel bearing”. Was a pretty uneventful fix, but stressful… the 40-year old aluminum case has a bunch of hairline cracks in it, so in really didn’t want to smack it at all. I used a slide hammer to pull the bearing and seal in one shot, and a 15/16” socket to drive the bearing in. Matt had the old seal in his pocket, in an attempt to get one locally. The ultra rare bearings were needed was easily found for $4 about 3 mins from home. Matt splurged for the premium bearings at $14 each. Plan is to bring the other bearing to work and push it out with the arbor press… i really don’t want to damage the case, or race, or driven clutch shaft.
Don’t ask me why, but for some reason I offered up my labour services free of charge on this unit…but with that in mind Ive also outsourced the worst jobs… degreasing, and old gasket scraping.Matt is out of town a couple days, so I’m switching gears and Going to be doing overdue maintenance on Truckee for a few hours today. Brake service, brake fluid flush, tire rotation, serp belt and idlers are in the task list today. If time permits, I’ll start changing diff oil as well. Think i have about 5-6 hours where my family is going to gramas house.
Last night in The Shop, Matt and I worked in the Spree a little bit. Some wins some losses.
Win, new tube went in perfectly this time, no snags. The old tube had a pin hole where it got pinched, a tear from where i stabbed it during removal, and was generally a little thin around the edges.
Losses, the new belt was too wide and too long to fit, the “wheel bearing” has def failed, and struggles to find oil seals continues.
I think matt only needs to buy two bearings And two seals to be up and running again.Gahh, nearly all my pictures from last night were very blurry…dunno how that happened 🤪
Attachments:
The difficulty is that the rear bearings are in the engine case as opposed to the rim itself. The rim attaches firmly to a splined shaft that floats on bearings. Just means we gotta get more invasive in the surgery to make that rear wheel stop wobbling.
I spooned a new tire into the freshly painted front rim Monday night, however I pinched the tube during re-install. She did not hold any pressure… i don’t feel too bad, the tubes might be 40-years old, but they are def cheap to replace at $10.40 each.
Did you go straight from OEM to Elkas? My taco needs shocks all around, but looking into 5100s for a “cheap” upgrade.
I threw my oem headlights code into ebay and came up with a few options in the $35-100 range, not sure if that’s each or for a pair. I must have been searching the bulb number as opposed to the housing number previously, have never had so many results filter in before. Maybe I’ll let a family member onto that idea for a birthday present, so i don’t have to choose the style. Too many choices.
Anything can be dog pooped simply by using a plastic bag to protect one’s hands. It’s one of my favourite adverbs, describing the action of picking up in a “dog poop” manner.
This 3rz oil filter is better than the 22re simply because it installs up wards as opposed to sideways. The flaw in the 3rz is that there’s easily 250 ml of oil in the hoses which lead to the oil filter housing, which drained as soon as the filter was cracked loose.A couple nights in the last week, Matt and I have been working on his new 1984 Honda Spree. Officially an NQ50, a one-owner 50cc two stroke for LCBO and timmies runs.
Mechanically it’s pretty sound, but cosmetically gross.
This week we pulled all the plastic off the body, spooned off a set of crunchy tires, rims and exhaust painted (still drying), got the seat recovered, and have been searching for bearings and seals online. The scooter shows symptoms of a bad rear wheel bearing, however the wheel bolts directly To the final reduction shaft, meaning the bad bearings are pressed into the engine case. Will take some more digging to find obsolete bearings, but matt is motivated. New tires and drive belt arrived, just waiting on rims to dry and bearings to be found.The other night I came up with a cheap solution to the “airbox problem”. Long story short, it’s good enough for now.
The problem with the air box is that it is just way too big, height wise. I’ll be required to drastically cut the former battery tray out of Redee, or trim off 50% of the bottom of the 3rz air box, then recreate it somehow.
My solution, I dissected the MAF sensor out of the air box (with a little persuasion), and bought an adapter that allows me to mount a cone filter to the intake side of it. The kit also comes with a cone filter, not bad for $50.
Parts should arrive soon, we’ll see how it goes. I still need to build a bracket to stabilize that MAF sensor end to the body like the air box used to be.
Got back out last night to pump some oil. Filled the trans with 3L of MT-90, the frint diff and tcase with about 2L of motomaster 80W-90 each.
A messy night with some spills, but progress is progress.
Also put the new shifter boots on, and the floor seal as well.
