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Crossing items off the list!
Monday, added 5L of 5W-30 for the first time since swapping out the oil pan a few months ago. New oil filter spun on super easy, after the old filter dumped 250ml of black oil on my freshly scraped and cleaned front diff. Next time, I’ll “dog poop” the filter so it can’t piss everywhere.
Tuesday, I tackled the clutch hydraulic system. I “cleaned” the slave cylinder with some brake clean cause it shot rust coloured brake fluid out of it when I removed the old lines. I bought two pre-flared lengths of copper nickel brake line and bent them into shape by hand in no time. By the way, I will never buy steel brake lines again, this copper nickel was a dream to work with. Tried to bleed the clutch, but had no success pushing fluid to the slave. I also hooked up the throttle cable to the throttle body.
Wednesday, this morning i verified with James how to use his power bleeder. Skip to after work, and I had the clutch fully bled within 5 mins. I’ll prolly end up flushing this system a few times, still getting rust stained fluid coming out. With Mady working the clutch, I crawled under Redee and was able to spin the tcase output flange by hand while she worked the pedal. Total success!!
I officially have 3 working pedals!!
Ps. See the old clutch flex hose was nearly swollen shut.
My next time out in the shop, I will start filling diffs and tranny with fresh oil, and replace all the boots for my shifters. Tcase is missing, trans terribly ripped.
In the 20 mins between getting home from work, and starting to cook dinner yesterday, I managed to reposition the floor jack and engine hoist and pry bar into a favourable position, and was able to hand thread in a second bolt! Called that a win, made dinner and rode the high of success for a couple hours.
After all the kids went to bed, I returned to finish my work.
Crossmember bolted in place.
All bellhousing bolts tightened to spec-ish.
Engine mounts re-tightened.
Trans and tcase shifters installed.
Interior trim pieces temp installed (for photo ops)…I still have to replace the rubber boots on the shifters, but that’s child’s play. Cut the old ones off, a lil spritz of WD40 to slide them in place.Matt and I both drooled over the end result last night. So much motivation built after just fondling the power wands for a couple mins.
Mic drop.
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No worries Kev, I pre-jacked the thread.
Last night was a big night in The Shop, and so nearly successful. Matt and I worked to get the trans matef to the 3rz in Redee, but I was only able to hand thread the first bolt on the drivers side. Seems like the motor and trans need to CLOCK a few degrees for the next alignment dowel to catch.
Have a new plan of attack, more beers chilling, and hopefully a full success tonight.
Hmmm, I’ve never been inside a Celica, but how are the front seats?
Tell me more about the car, I don’t mind the detour in the thread, I’ll get back to wrenching on Redee soon enough. I put the Motor back in last night, hopefully can stay in this time. Was a much harder fit with the clutch assembled. Likely I’ll pull the fan off the front side if I do pull it out again.But yea, gimmie a paragraph or two of Celica chat, I’m curious. Got a picture of it?
Thanks guys, I really hope this is the last time, kinda getting old now. I’m ready to start pretend driving with three pedals AND two levers as opposed to a hole in the floor.
Just looking for an opportunity to get out to the shop, wife is working night shifts so I’ve been dad on duty after work.I don’t think there’s many 22re related parts I need, but i am interested. Project car? Just hibernating? Is the whole car for sale?
Diggin’ through the wiring manual revealed that both the 4wd indicator and reverse lights leave their respective switch, travel up the firewall, to the passenger side, into the kick panel, and both terminate into a Yellow “N3” connector. That connector i previously tapped into for the reverse lights on the B&M slap shifter reverse light signal. So I’ve already got non-OEM wire dangling from it.
Now that the mystery is solved, and access is not really an issue, I’ll try to put the motor in for good this time. Fingers crossed it won’t have to come back out.
Here’s the leads for trans and tcase
I loved every minute of the help.
I’m not sure where the switch would be in an auto trans, but the mini truck standards have it on the pedal. I put the 3rz/w59 switch into the 22re/w56 spot, but the pedal I got from @Finn was from an unknown donor. Looks like it is missing a tab, or from a truck that predates clutch safety switches.I’ve since fully installed the throttle pedal, and cable. I replaced the speedo drive cable as well.
Last night with Matts help I was able to set proper torque on the flywheel bolts, which required a two-step tightening, and Matt stopping rotation on the Other side of the crank. I then installed the pilot bearing, clutch and pressure plate.
Was a good night in The Shop. At this point in time the bbq’d pizza was ready, and progress was complete for the night.
Also, a rare picture of me doing work.I’m going to install my ultra gauge display to the left and below the steering wheel in front of the rear windows defrost button. I’ll still be able to activate the button, but i won’t need to (due to fair weather driving only).
I’ve got two quick tasks before i drop the motor in for good. I must repair and locate the 4wd indicator wire, I think it goes through the firewall in the centre somewhere. All i remember is that it used to work, then the chevy melted the wire, so i removed it. But I have no idea of its route from tcase to dash. The other being the same task for the reverse light wire.
Yesterday in The Shop, I had truckee in for some quick jobs.
Recently my exhaust got a lot louder, and on a cold morning i spotted a large leak via big clouds of steam under the passenger floor board. Quick inspection showed the gasket between the Y-pipe and tailpipe had failed almost completely. $16 and a couple new bolts had it sealed up tight again. Unfortunately, the exhaust is still quite loud (in a very unsexy V6 manner) due to the 1/2 dozen holes in the muffler. I’ll attach a picture of the biggest hole. Approximately 3cm dilated.
While i was under truckee, I greased all the drive line zerks.Will prolly give Matt’s 4runner a greasing over the weekend. I borrowed his 4th Gen to cruise to work yesterday and was quite impressed. I think this is the first time i drove it further than the 100 metres been our two houses.
Last night i chopped the throttle cable mounting plate down so it’ll fit under the firewall NVH blanket. I took about 3cms off the tab on the right so it’s bit shorter than tab on left with the rubber stopper.
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Made some progress on Redee with the help of my daughter. She has been asking me to help for weeks, but the exhaust work left no opportunity for small hands.
Regardless, my lil helper was more than willing to cram her body into the drivers foot well to attach the clutch pedal. Together we got the clutch pedal installed, modified a brake return spring to work for the clutch pedal, and installed the master cylinder. I’m at a loss here because I can’t determine where on the clutch pedal, the Safety Switch (for starter) is supposed to make contact. There’s no TAB for the switch to make contact with, so I’m a bit confused.
I started putting the 3RZ throttle came in place, but i have to cut a tab off the bracket first.
We also pulled half the dash so I can replace the speedo drive cable the next time the motor comes out. Hopefully the next time will be the last time.Ending the year on a high note. Last night I re-shaped the brake lines on the firewall, moving the down ward run further outboard (gaining clearance to the header). Glad the lines i ran in 2018 had enough slack to be moved.
This afternoon, Lance got in contact with me to let me know the header has been cut, reshaped and tacked, ready for a test fit. Tomorrow when i grab it I’ll let Lance know if/where any interference exists, and will return it for further mod or final welding.
Got plenty of work to do, and the clock starts ticking at midnight.
Yea I’m definitely not going to part with the ARB, just shelf it till I got more time/desire to rebuild it.
Last night i finished the lunchbox retrofit into the 4.88s. Also replaced the pinion seal which looked like it was leaking. I think the pinion flange (that the drive shaft bolts to) May be worn where the pinion seal rides. There was visible lines, very slight depth to it as well. If it still leaks, I’ll swap that pinion flange with one of the many 3rds I have kicking around.
The backlash on the 4.88 feels all wrong, so I’ll bring it to work tomorrow and borrow a magnetic base dial indicator to shift the ring gear closer to the pinion gear. I believe spec is .006” to .010”, I’m easily at 0.040” now, my calibrated fingers tell me so.
Today i dropped off the long tube header for modification. Lance said he’ll make a change, and just tack it so i can test fit before final welding. I told him I’m in no rush, enjoy Christmas and call me when ready. I am confident, def optimistic.
