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Haha that’s pretty much encased in ice. Glad they could thaw it in their shop, rather than your own. Prolly picked up a few free ponies by the time it thawed out and got on a diet.
I had to chip and thaw truckee cause I got tired of riding bump stops around. Took a couple hundred pounds of snow off the belly, muuuch faster.
The damage. A little custom grind to one handle. The magnetic base, and easy to hang hook both road casualties.Happy wrenching everybody. Be careful when children, or flashlights are around.
Why would you drag your light so far? Some kind of weird test?
Well let me explain to you the dangers of wrenching with Children. Just as I finished up searching ARB air leaks under Redee, one of my children asks “why are you under Red truckee?” A simple explanation won’t satisfy my girls, they’ve been taught to question their surroundings and learn all they can. Can’t stop that good inquiry in the shop. So I setup my LED lightbar and start the lesson.
90 seconds later, the lesson moves inside Redee about the switches that make the loud noise (ARB compressor) turn on. Naturally, to keep her interest, I respond quickly. Lightbar instantly forgotten, battery died, 6-hours later ADVENTURE DRIVE!!!!!
Anyways, I’m not here to be a paid spokesperson, but this friggen lightbar still works. I’ve sat on it, stepped on it, (threw it once in anger), let it freeze, and now dragged it under Redee through slush and mud, STILL FREAKIN’ WORKS ! Best $27 I spent on a flashlight, other than the fact it blinds me 1/2 the time I use it. That’s due to its stupid octagonal shape, and not resisting rolling well enough.
Yesterday while headed home on Hwy 89 from an adventure drive with my girls, I had a good samaritan roll down a window and shout across at me “you’re dragging a light!”
I thanked the motorist, and pulled off at the next sideroad to take a look.
….I was infact dragging a light. It was my 3ft long Motomaster LED shop light. It had been dragging for at least, bare minimum 35km…mostly unpaved. Damn. Although I hated that light, I had hoped it would lived a few years longer. No need to fuss, brainfart already happened.
(placed back for re-enactment)I unwedged the light, threw in the roof basket, and decided to test it later…doesn’t look too broken.
Yup, good catch Steve.
Ebay converted my money at $1CDN – $0.55GBP. Costs me roughly $9.50 to the door.
I’ve ended up buying a 10-pack from across the pond for about $9CDN.
Long story short, I could sell my remaining 9 ferrules for $10/each and make back my money 10-fold!! Prolly just keep them for spares, hook a buddy up should the need arise.
Also for sale, 19 tach conversion resistors for I4 / V6 to V8 😉
The leak got a bunch worse to where the compressor would run non-stop when the locker solenoid was open. I sprayed the entire tube run with soapy water, to find the leak at the rear diff.
I pulled the compression fitting apart and found a few cracks in the tube on the wrong side of the ferrule.
After 2 days of searching, I’ve discovered that a 5mm brass ferrule is tough to find. Anything from ARB itself is pretty crazy expensive, before tax/duty/exchange and comes as part of a kit. I found a couple 4wheel-drive places online selling a single ferrule for $1.57-3.00 each, but a shipping quote to my address was $65-80!!! No way José.
Hey @Benlamers your bumper trim and paracord wrap looks great!
Patches from Whistler to Ottawa, were those earned in the 4Runner for those trips?
Well the snow arrived, lots of wind made huge drifts. Took Redee out for a romp to the grocery store.
I tested the rear locker, and have to re-check for air leaks. Although the locker activates, the compressor has to run too frequently (3-mins of driving); according to the manual the pump should run at 15-minute intervals if the system is without leaks.
Hey that looks awesome, sounds like ideal fitment too. Only concern is the not off-road outer bumper, leaves the fender and headlight unprotected.
Spent the first half hour of my morning making a switch holder for the mirror mount, only to discover I didn’t have enough depth to mount them up there. Oh well, guess that means they gotta go in the shifter surround.
AND….Voila, installed.
The compressor is mounted behind the wall, almost perfectly behind the roll bar. Made drilling the mounting holes a pain, but the wasted space is now used.
I did not have to extend any wires, splice anything, or run new circuits. I grabbed 12V power from the rear defrost (which I’ll never use), rated at 20 amps, and I had a tagged “dash illumination” wire from last winter. Everything else was plug and play.
I’m more than a little annoyed the 1/4 NPT tee fitting that came with my ARB pump up kit has shitty threads and won’t hand thread into the pump housing, The pressure sensor, and air chuck all thread in just fine, but the male end of the tee is NFG. So those parts are back into the box for another day.
Now it’s time for lunch, then a road test. But where’s all the snow??
Thanks Steve, I’ve never had overhead switches, so not sure what to expect.
I know that both switches are illuminated, one of the wires I tagged in the harness was for “dash illumination”.
I’m trying to factor the likelihood of the switches being activated accidentally, or damaged from my children climbing around if I put them down low by the shifter. That would be the easier location to mount to, and right at hand when it’s time to activate them, but there’s no “cool points” to gain.
Overhead has plenty of cool, and all the new TRD Offroads have their crawl control wizardry up there.
kinda leaning towards overhead, so long as I can rig up a mounting plate that looks half-decent, since I’ll be forced to look at it frequently.
