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Thanks Steve. Lookin’ at the bike again last night, I think
Perhaps both my unaffiliated grounds may go to the battery. Both wires are very near to the battery, and B/W is -ve, so just gonna put 2&2 together.Hopefully get a chance to play out in the shop tonight.
I have started to lose faith in the fork seal supplier, so I ordered the LAST set of OEM seals on Ebay yesterday. $97 for the 4 seals, where Allballs were half that, and the second supplier just a little more. Of all the parts for my older bike, these fork seals and rear wheel bearings have been the hardest to find. My wheel bearings spun nicely by hand, but I have no idea how many kms on them, and these knobbies I mounted might be a little hard on them. I guess time will tell.
Same here. We all make mistakes, the A+ recovery effort will be acknowledged.
Hey Steve, easy question for ya. Do bikes have chassis grounds? Or do all the negatives terminate at the battery?
I have been pouring over the wiring diagram, but cannot determine where two “Black w/ White tracer” ground wires go. One is very close to the battery, making me think the ring terminal was cut off just like the positive lead. The other is about 8” away from the battery with a female bullet connector, and no male end in sight. Chassis ground maybe? It runs in the same wiring bundle as the turn signal relay, but the relay is fully satisfied already.I sent an email inquiry to the UK company I bought these from at lunch today, and by the time I got home from work they had read my email, replied to me, and sent out a replacement set!! Awesome customer service!!
The first incompatible set I ordered from FortNine, after talking to AllBalls tech support and ordering what they told me to.
Before I got home, I tried again to order OEM seals and once again was informed they were discontinued. I emailed their service manager asking her to show their techs and get an opinion. Hoping this is irrelevant once my replacement seals come to me.
FML. Another set of seals arrived that don’t match what’s coming out of my bike. 🤬🤬🤬
Seals in.
Seals out.
New seals in hand. Curse words.We figure if the temps are too low, or bugs too bad, we’ll pack up early and head back home. Wouldn’t be the first time, prolly won’t be the last either.
We’re also lookin’ to go to Ardbeg in the thick of summer, July 23/24/24 (my preferred season).
Today in The Shop, got a bunch completed on the DR.
Front tire and tube installed.
Air filter oiled and installed.
Chain installed, tension set and rear axle torqued up.
Wiring harness laid out and labelled. I have a few repairs to make to the harness, mainly the battery leads need to be lengthened, and the ebay gauge cluster needs to man up (both stock harness and cluster have female ends of connector present).Second pic didnt upload. Tryin’ again
James and I took a scenic route on our way to Alliston today, checking out the conditions on some No Exit roads. Despite all the melting this week, the overnight lows allowed for re-freezing. Overall the road conditions were mostly dry, and some snow/ice hardpack in the shade. Hardly any wheelspin, no traction aides required today. I figure in a few more weeks as the ground fully thaws it’ll get pretty soupy out there.
James is feeling some confidence with his new Duratracs this week. Got a set of LT265/70-17 from my buddy Eric @ Mapleview Tire (705-985-8473).
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I’m gonna try again to build the forks. I feel like I learned from my fail, now I’m just waiting on parts in the mail.
I landed a decent job in Orangeville! I start early April, I just gotta give notice in North York now. New work is roughly 23kms door to door, roughly 15kms of dirt road if I so choose, and hours are 7:30am-4pm Mon-Fri. Able to take Redee or the DS600 to shake up the routines.
Came home from work yesterday to see two boxes from FortNine, and one was really big! Big enough to fit a pair of knobbies!! I was googling half the night trying to figure out what Bead lubricant to use, and whether or not to dust the tube in talcom powder to prevent chaffing…honestly three hours later I have no solid direction, just a bunch of internet opinions. I’ve decided to go buy some bead lubricant (that was well received by internet ppl, and quite inexpensive) from my local NAPA, and do my best to spoon those knobbie mo-fos on there afterwards.
Once I mount the new rear tire , I can install and torque the entire driveline! Chain arrived in the smaller box yesterday, sprockets are still good, brake shoes are still good…. it’s Gonna be a great photo update in my next post.
C’mon Royal Mail and Canada Post, bring me fork seals so I can button up the front end too!
Glad to see that crush-cube took a beating to save the rad support!
Looking loads better already. Glad the TW crew is helping to sort things out.Uggghh, this morning I called and got two quotes of roughly $200 after tax to rebuild the forks, labour only. I remember paying about $200 for parts and labour a few years ago for my RMZ. For $200 I think I’m willing to try again on the rebuild, even if I fudge up another $50 set of seals. Time to improvise a better seal driver, this amazon crap has really let me down.
Today in The Shop, I kept working on the DR600. I found and ordered another set of fork seals, then busted out some muscles. I spooned off the old and dry rotten tires, the bead on the rear was suuuper stuck and made me bust a real sweat. The front was pretty easy. I’m considering paying to have the new MT21’s mounted, but I feel obligated at least try spooning the new ones on. We’ll see how energetic I feel once the tires arrive this week. Still gotta clean up the bead area a bit.
Afterwards I set about torquing the swingarm pivots, and engine mounts as I don’t plan on removing either of these major components again.
I was hoping to layout the wiring harness, or get the exhaust put back on today, but it was time to start cookin’ dinner.
