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Nice flipper! How much work that need? Looks super clean.
My buddy and I do the same with atvs and dirtbikes, helps to pad the pockets and keep the skills sharp. Gives me another excuse to hide in the shop too haha
Wow Aiden you’ve sure done some exploring in the last year. What brought you to Yellowknife, other than imparting Canadian faith in Toyota? Last I recall you and the gf were way remote in Northern Alberta?
Congrats Mark! Got’er finished up just in time for spirited winter driving season. Enjoy the Maiden Voyage!
That’s a pretty manageable list by the looks of it. I wish you luck chasing sqeaks and rattles, I’m sure that battle will be ongoing.
I can share with you any electrical diagrams you’d need for your 4Runner, I have the Official “Toyota Truck & 4Runner” electrical wiring diagram manual.
@Nick_386 has the bypassed version of wiring in the Yoda. Essentially you require a 3-position, 5-pin switch, fused 12V source, and enough wire to reach the tailgate from your drivers seat. Although I did not finish the rear window hack for @Nick_386, I did de-grime (root cause of failure) and lubricate all the innards of the tailgate, and run all the wires to the drivers seat. I bought a pair of ebay for $5. (ebay ad # 262723353364). With the two tailgate covers removed from the interior side, tap into the two wires going to the window motor, and wire up your switch as per the image below.
My two favourite mods for the rear window are having the centre console switch “always hot”, and installing a secondary switch in the rear cargo area. For the anytime hot mod, start reading about halfway down the page @ heading “Tired of having to dig out your keys just to open the @*$%-ing rear window? ” https://www.4crawler.com/4×4/CheapTricks/RearWindow.shtml Best part, all the interlocks still work for the Lock switch, rear wiper and key in tailgate. But if your power window relay is pooched, this mod won’t work for you.
Half doors. If you’re interested in test fitting or test driving around with my half doors to determine how you’d like to alter the design on your 4Runner, just let me know. No cup holders though. I’m in no rush to get them mounted up on Redee.
By no means an expert on winterizing, but I remember helping my parents to winterize our Coleman tent trailer by emptying the blue water storage tank, cleaning the 3-way fridge and leaving it cracked open to prevent moisture/mold buildup inside, and leaving it parked with the tires off the ground. Your roof tarp already looks legit enough to prevent the roof from getting soggy and rotting.
Would love to join on the Knar first trek to Ardbeg but we’ve got plans with my sis-in-law Saturday, and Sams working Sunday. Hope you guys have a blast, and are able to locate two “standing dead pines” near the new campsite.
Evan, speaking of doing it right the first time, Redee has a leaking windshield and I believe I have the best access at it now. I’m not sure if its from a little rust in the frame or a break in the silicone somewhere. I have a buddy who’s father does windshield repairs, hoping he can bring some opinions or experience in gauging the repair work. The last time I tried to re-seal a windshield, it leaked twice as bad when I was done, so I’m ready to ask for help haha.
Mark, I don’t know for certain the origin of the motor, but I have hope it was bought new from a catalogue in 1994. The 2nd owner had bought and installed tons of catalogue parts, SmittyBilt bumpers, diamond plate armour, American racing rims and 33s, the 4.5″ lift etc, audio and alarm too. Steve told me owner #2 was a wealthy med student with good taste for mini-trucks. But Redee’s true powerplant origins are still a mystery. But hooray for 4-bolt mains!! Bring on some power adders!! Boooooooooost!!!!
I still forsee a diesel swap somewhere in Redee’s future…prolly the winter after I get fed up of pumping gasoline every 200km (~estimated). We’ll see how an Auto tranny treats me, never been a fan. Any diesel swap will be backed by a manual trans.
Evan, there was never a doubt that airbox was coming out and apart, couldn’t risk the germs with young lungs around. Good news for you, with the blower motor pulled, and the heater selector on Cold, you should be able to get a shop vac hose at least 50% of the way into the airbox to get those pieces of rattling debris out. I hope what you may find is less yucky haha.
I finished replacing the last foam seal with help from my 4.5 y/o daughter, she’s so glad that there are “no more yucky poo poo germs in red truckee”.
Unrelated topic, I was able to read the engine block casting code on the firewall side of the block. It explains why the parts guys had a tough time dating the motor based off the details I had given them.
Crate 350, 4-bolt mains. Nice.
Thanks Kevin, I try to put some effort into write-ups as I know I have at least one fan reading. My younger sister lives in Montreal but loves keeping up to date on my projects, kijiji bikes/atvs, and of course Redee. Pretty sure she’ll be gunning for one of the first test drives once Redee is up and running. My sis has a love-hate relatioship with V8 powered SUVs. Love the power, hate the thirst. My family had a 4.7L Dodge Durango for a decade.
Today I Gorilla Glued the blower motor box back together. I was a little more liberal with the glue this go round, knowing how easy it was to separate last time. You can see it oozing out as it dries and expands. Will let it dry overnight inside so it doesn’t get too cold in the shop.
The dabs of Gorilla glue held fine, until I tried to peel the two halves apart. It may have held, or it may have fallen apart once the blower motor was hanging off the bottom. We’ll never know now haha.
I’ll try it again but with twice as many dabs of glue. Trial #2 perhaps tonight if I have any energy after the girls are asleep
