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Ugggghhhh I know your pain. I find the trouble comes up when putting pictures and text together…hit submit it shows as there, change page and it’s gone.
Notice any driveability changes since the rebuild?
When I did the preload for IFS , I just cautioned towards the tight side of tolerance, assuming it’d loosen up under abuse.
Wow, that oil filter really got me fired up. But it wasn’t just the stupid plastic filter box with a 24mm hex head, or the continuous dripping of road grime onto me, or the 5.6L capacity which means buying two jugs, and spec of 0W20 meant I had none at home already. It had been a long day. I meant to write F*** Chrysler. Ah, now I feel better
Made my third trip to my local parts store for an upper rad hose, finally I’m content with the inner diameter and S-bend, however I still might have to cut it down to size. I was hoping to get away from a 3-piece upper rad hose, but the location of the rad inlet and alternator make it incredibly difficult to find a direct fit.
Did my first oil change in Sam’s caravan. Friggen chrysler out an easy to change oil filter cartridge, in an impossible to reach location!! Fuckers!! Why bother redeisgning the oil filter, the old motor had a spin on filter right beside the drain plug. It’s not like going to this handy top-loading cartridge saves you from laying on your back, the drain plug is still under there. Best yet, the filter cartridge goes into a molded plastic housing, that’s sure to break given enough heat cycles. Friggen unbelievable waste of time. Rant over. Fuck Chrysler.
Thanks Steve. I wanna Yota buddy that lives as close to me as you do to Mark.
An AWD V8 recovery truck sounds like a good chase car too for my Dufferin County exploring.
The pigtail I soldered onto the tach with a 5k-ohm resistor attached. I’d test it out, but neither the cooling nor PS systems are closed loops as they are intended to be.
Hopefully have the fenders hung before the spring M&G, but it’s under a couple other items on To-do list. Pretty sure it’ll get tackled in a Windshield / Fender / diamond plate delete trifecta in the spring.
Buddy James and I couldn’t get our schedules to align, so I dug into it myself today. Working slowly and carefully, managed to add in that ebay resistor, and bench test the results. All worked out so far, just need to fire up the motor, and dial in my calibration to match the FiTech readout! Eff yes this is gonna be awesome.
My buddy James is gonna stop over tonight to solder in that variable resistor for the tach mod!! Sweeeet!!
Oh man that doesn’t look good, glad your buddy is OK and onboard to CHOP. I guess there’s always a silver lining….with the truck flopped frame inspection is a breeze, and it looks super clean from here at least. Hopefully your buddy won’t have to build a frame first.
Webmaster as toys-n-yotas for testing image uploads …
seems to be working, not sure what to fix…
Webmaster
Still no-go. Just lost another post with pictures.
The “edit” and “Home” buttons are still present in the header too
Forums were my way to keep in the community, but cut out all the “filler”. Get my quick fix, move on. I seemed to linger on facebook, 5 mins became 10, turned into 15, and none of it was productive.
The war chest coughed up some awesome stuff. I’ll have to stick around longer next time, get an update on your LC and the 4Extra.
I did the honourable thing today and bought a M16x1.5 tap on ebay today for $5. Even IF I have to buy a 45/64th drill, and a 1/2” NPT plug, it’ll still work out cheaper than the ebay adaptor. Best case scenario I can tap a couple and sell them myself as a conversion piece for $15.
RockAuto delivered the high-pressure power steering line today, so I gotta get it shortened and flared. Really I’m out if excuses now to finish refurb on the steering gear. Perhaps while the girls at school tomorrow I’ll make some more progress.
