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I’ve gotta plan of attack for those CVs. I borrowed a 35mm socket from my buddy, will cut the nut off the upper BJ, use air hammer to drive it outta the hub, and just throw a weld back on the upper BJ stud to keep it located in the UCA long enough for the donor to be winched onto the scrapper trailer. Hoping the angle grinder and disregard for the donor will help make quick work of this extraction.
Last night I pulled a couple heat shields, the brake pedal/master/booster and devised this CV plan.
Hoping tonight to finish up with CVs, airbox fender snorkel, maybe the battery tray and maybe some of the under hood fuel lines (just for the threaded fittings).
Last night in The Shop, I broke out the hot knife to help remove some good parts off the donor.
I cut out and set aside the trans/tcase and both driveshafts, more of the exhaust, trailer hitch and door mirrors.
Now that the exhaust is out the way I can pull the heat shields and just about have my “harvest list” complete.Evan, what’s the easiest way to pull CV’s on these trucks? Separate the lower balljoint?
Redee has factory 4.10s with an air locker in the rear. I have a full set of 4.56s on the shop floor, but both F/R are open. Torn between +10% torque vs -50% traction. In my estimated 5,000kms of touring, I’ve used that air locker once or twice, it seems a little unreliable at times. I feel like a lunchbox would be fine, and with exception to Ardbeg (once) and No Winter roads (a 20M section here or there) the open diff would be more than adequate.
I’m gonna keep 33s, but long range plan is to go much skinnier. 33×12.5 now, ideal is a 33×10 mud terrain. I will run these Duratracs out though, my attempts at selling them only yielded frustration.
Yea this donor has been taunting me for months, but finally got the tools and time aligned. Pretty sure I got all I NEED so far, but gotta do a triple check before I call the scrapper.
You interested in the brake booster and/or master? Anything else interest you? I’m gonna drop the trans/tcase cause I’d hate to see them go to scrap, they both shifted so smoothly. Gas tank doesn’t leak, front doors are decent.
Redee’s new heart is hanging from the hoist, waiting on some refresh parts before starting the process of transplanting.
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Yesterday in The Shop, a donor was harvested! James and I had a great day pulling the motor, electrical, and bellhousing from that incredibly rusty 3rd gen 4Runner. Technically I have all the parts I require for the swap, but I’m gonna pull a few more parts off before sending her off to scrap.
Evan, I got the steering rack out for you, but have made no attempts on the CV’s.
The mystery of no headlights and no voltage have both been solved. For the headlights, I must have flicked the “lights off” kill switch at some point on my last ride home after I melted that fuse. Unfortunately, the 0.8V measured is less cheap to repair. That crazy over voltage wrecked my battery, I could barely remove it from its holster in the bike because it is so swollen and misshapen. Glad it did not start a fire under my butt!
Gonna order a new battery, and hope it arrives before I park the bike for the season. Daytime highs in the teens let me think I can ride till end of november, but my tolerance for cold weather is practically nill since I entered my 30’s
Sunday Sunday Sunday! Got the entire day to myself in the shop. First goal is to harvest the 3RZ from the donor, secondary goal would be to harvest Evan’s parts (CV’s & steering rack) third is to get the donor back outside.
Yesterday I received my new Voltage regulator in the mail, so I threw it, a new fuse and headlight bulb in the bike. The new bulb didn’t turn on when the engine fired up, so I tested the battery and it had less than 1 volt stored. Gonna try to recharge the battery by idling the bike in the driveway today, otherwise I’ll put the charger on it.
Yesterday, Matt bought himself an old bike, a 1986 Suzuki DR 600S. Same bike as mine, just two years older, and in better shape than when I brought mine home. Carb troubles are its only defect (this far). I suspect the float is sticking because he says gas was pissing out the overflow vent, and the carb is missing the rocker arm for the accelerator pump. I’ll do my best to repair the carb on Friday whilst I do consumption, I know Matt is very eager to hear the bike run. It would sputter and die when he went to buy it, my guess is that it was horribly flooded.
The Shop has been slow lately, the bike is down waiting on parts, I had to put rear brakes in my wife’s Caravan (full CPR treatment, and an E-brake cable), and I have a bunch of random furniture and donation items cloggin’ up my workspace. Hoping to clear the shit out and start into the 3RZ donor very soon. I think it is finally “next in queue” to come through the bay door.
Eeek! Saw 19.5 volts on my ride, my voltage rectifier / regulator is pooched, so the electrical system is getting way too much voltage, which completely explains why my bike eats lightbulbs. Suzuki has obsoleted the part, so I bought a Caltric unit off ebay. Hoping it arrives quickly, estimated about 2-3 weeks.
Today in The Shop, a quick mod to the bike for diagnostic purposes. My bike eats light bulbs like they’re going out of style, mainly the dual filament (running/stop) taillight, luckily they’re only about $1.50 a piece. However yesterday morning I was about 20 metres out of my driveway and the headlight blew, not great at 5:30am, but I’m thankful it happened on my lit street rather than halfway to work while I’m riding +60 km/h on a country sideroad.
Anyways, I’ve ordered some LED bulbs to hopefully resist failure from vibration, but I have a suspicion the failures may be caused by inconsistent voltage. So today I added a cheap LED volt meter using an unused +12V source near the handle bars, and a bit of two-sided tape. Not the best install, but hopefully this is temporary until I determine the root cause. Really hoping it’s vibration related as I feel it’ll be a much cheaper fix (LED bulbs in the mail already).Update, the carb tweak is going strong. I filled the tank on the weekend and saw 6L/100km vs 5.2L/100km on the tank prior. Not bad considering I was pretty hard on the bike “testing” and tuning, and my final 75kms on the tank were touring backroads and some No Winters with Matt.
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There, I fixed it.
Got the carb out in record time (practice makes perfect), pulled the bowl off, pulled the main jet and held it to the light. 2/3 blockage, just a pinhole of light. Ran my largest jet cleaner through it, and didnt even feel resistance. Now a flood of light coming through. Back together, starts on first kick, and a test drive. Safe to say she def pulled past 5,000rpm on hwy 89.
I still can’t believe the carb had debris in it again. Just my luck I spose.
All good now, time for a beer.
Gahhh, the bike is back in the shop. The carb troubles continue, still running lean. My symptoms:
1: won’t rev out past 5,000rpm
2: top speed like 105km/h
3: at 5,000rpm, roll off the throttle and the bike “speeds up” momentarily before slowing down.It’s a shame cause the bike starts beautifully with one kick, and has decent power under 4,500 rpm. Just can’t pull any power above 4500-5000ish.
All my literature and my spark plugs suggest a lean condition. It could simply be the float height is too low, or there’s something obstructing fuel flow into the carb. Either way I’m gonna take a couple hours to dot my i’s and cross my t’s.
Well apparently I can’t post links, so I’ll type it out, kinda
Go to Youtube, I’m user “Mecheng1”, and my uploads should be visible to you all.
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