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that’s weird, the red looks blotchy. The resolution is terrible, my original photo looks way better. Anyway, I guess you get the gist
I’d love to join in. That being said, I’m concerned about my knee. Sarah would kill me if I mess it up some more and WSIB would throw my case out the window. SO! it looks like a no go for me. I really wanna give the $runner a run on the trails.
Cherry Bomb offers different degrees of loud. I’m aiming for the low loud when the time comes.
Hope the safety goes well for you Mark.
Gotta like a Cherry Bomb, I really like the sound of a glass pack. Thats my plan for the Taco and eventually the Runner.
Whats the next major thing to do Mark?
Finn sent me a doodle he made up for a TNORTT logo. So I ran with the idea and came up with the logo on the top of this graphics dump. I included variations of the logo.
Another one I called Finn’s Hammer I designed for Mark…. I was sharpening my digital pin striping skills
Hey It matches your TLC. Right on man, congratulations. Looks good.
What does the frame look like?
I predict a SAS in its future.
Krezz, depending on what radio you have, it may not be compatible with CB band. It must be a CB band handheld radio. The little handheld radios do not have that frequency.
that reminds me, I need to install the CB in the 4Runner… note to self
The steering shaft doesn’t need any fabricated modifications, although I did replace the crappy roll pins that holds the slip shaft in the upper column together. The role pin sheared while wheeling a couple years ago causing play in the steering. A small tack weld replaced the role pin. The tack weld is small enough to shear if I have a front end impact during an accident, but strong enough to keep the steering tight and responsive.
The Trailgear (Borgenson) parts are a direct bolt together system. I bought the Borgenson collapsable lower steering shaft separately a couple years ago. I bought the Trailgear U-joint to steering box part to replace the original Borgenson U-joint I bought before the Trailgear U-joint was available. The original joint would have required some modification to the splines in order to fit.
My cable conversion came from https://www.chilkatdesigns.com/E-Locker.html
Looking at the price of the kits may make you choke. But comparing the price of a new Toyota e-locker actuator, the Chilkat kit is great bang for the buck. IMO, the cable is WAY better and extremely reliable, simple design. I can also lock my rear in 2wd, locker you can’t do that without wiring mods.
More parts for the pile:
