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I agree, but the cruiser doesn’t really appeal to me. My buddy is a few inches shorter than me, pretty sure his ability to touch the ground will be quite the determining factor for him.
On the curb this morning, needs a battery and tires.
Think my Buddy Ratul is coming by in the afternoon to give the Katana a rip. He’s keen to buy it and has a kijiji person coming to check out his Virago this morning.
Today in The Shop, a running Katana! I decided I would buy 4 new spark plugs and remove the bank of carbs to take a better look.
The old plugs looked decent, but not worth keeping. $15 ea for new ones, they had better be worth it.
Once getting the bank of carbs out, and dripping gas everywhere, I started my investigation. Each carb was set back to spec, and got its jets cleaned.
The first carb was too lean on the idle screw by over 1 full turn. And the idle jet on carb 3 was almost completely clogged. I didn’t dare mess with the linkages between the carbs, but I suppose the next improvements can be made there….once I buy or rig a gauge.Reinstall the carbs, linkages and airbox, Temp install the tank, prime the fuel bowls, FIRE! Great on choke, but dying going full OFF. Fiddle with the idle speed, blip the throttle, rev rev Rev FREAKIN’ REVVVV!!!! Smooth idle.
Reassemble everything. Parked at the door. Ready to hit the curb tomorrow.
Today in the shop, the Katana had some layers removed. Off came the seat, tank, upper and lower fairings, coils and plugs. With help from my daughter, we got a version of a compression test completed.
The motor had not been warmed up and the battery is weak, however all 4 cylinders came in above the minimum spec and within allowable deviation.
Cylinder #2 was cold to touch the other day after test firing, was afraid it made no compression, but it tested highest today. The plug was also wet and stinky of gas. All good signs.Later today, or perhaps another day I’ll check valve clearance on all cylinders, hoping cylinder #1 with lowest compression is just a bit tight valve clearance.
Otherwise I’m looking at testing each coil resistance, and finally pulling the bank of carbs to get a real good look.
Fun day playing with new toys, er I mean tools, glad the new compression tester was compatible.
You might not have done any work, but you did facilitate some exercise. Does the dodge leave a healthy set of stripes behind?
Agreed, it looks quite sharp. Should sell quick when camping is allowed again.
Your kijiji trailer looks pretty solid to build off of. Have fun buddy!
Today in The Shop, three machines all received a little attention.
First up, the Katana. Knowing that the bike WANTS to start, I made some efforts today to promote starting.
First up, I put the OEM fuel tank petcock back in, as the generic aftermarket one did not fit the clearance hole of the fairing at all.
Secondly I replaced the fuel line, removing a kink that was in it blocking flow.
With everything put back together the bike started, but would not idle without choke and was surging quite a bit. Afterwards one of the exhaust headers was noticeably colder than the rest, no combustion.
Plan of attack: compression test, if OK get plugs, and clean carbs starting with the cold one.Next up, my buddy Ratul popped over on his Yamaha Virago. We brainstormed out a solution to a problem he noticed, and put it in place. He adjusted the throttle cable linkage to balance the idle speed across both cylinders. Starts faster, idles smoother.
Third up in the shop, Matt’s 4th gen. Out came a set of used up iridium plugs, in went the new set. His primary air filter was damn clean, so the new one is still in the box. But while in there, Matt took the time to cut out the secondary charcoal filter.
That’s it for today.
Today in The Shop, I’m expecting Matt to bring his 4th gen over to put in a new set of spark plugs and an air filter. After I replaced his front brakes, Matt saw a drop in fuel consumption from 15ish to 13ish L/100km. I said “I bet we could hit 12s with plugs and an air filter”. So he hit up google & forums to find best reviewed plugs, and put in an order to RockAuto.
I’m curious what the old plugs look like, and how many kms are on them.
I’m gonna have to order the new E-fans, my fan is definitely giving up. I’m gonna order a new 16”, as well as a pair of 9’s that I’ll put on a separate switch.
Steve, I looked on ebay for a rheostat, but they all cost more than the fans, maybe something I’ll upgrade to in the future.
That is on the Tacoma, I still don’t have a unique build thread for her. Keep lumping it in here haha.
You called it exactly, handle goes in, brake didn’t release. With help from my 4.5 y/o, I learned that the cable wasn’t moving either way, but wedged firmly in place.E-brakes are only supposed to seize from being un-used. I use mine everyday, shoulda stayed free. RockAuto has Raybestos full drum brake innards and cables for under $200.
I’ll put in a cable when I do shoes in the fall. Leading shoe has about 1.5mm at its lowest spot, tons left.
Redee is an auto, and I have only used e-brake two or three times since the safety haha. It also doesn’t release fully, but my trouble comes from the distribution on the rear axle. One side will release, and put slack in cable, other won’t release. I crawl under the back and touch the slackened area with one finger, and it snaps into neutral position. I’ve got a brand new T-case e-brake in a box, just unmotivated to install it. When I move forward with a transmission decision, the t-case brake will go in.
Hoping your gauge troubles aren’t the same as Pickup/4Runners where the potentiometer fails in the tank. Gauge reads fine until it passes “that point” and then falls to Empty.
Had another helper in my shop today figure out Truckee’s sticking passenger side drum. Lots of hums & haws, figured out the cable sheathing was binding where it enters the drum backing plate. Basically, the return spring inside the drum couldn’t overpower the drag of the sheathing in its bore. I chipped off the plastic sheathing from the cable, and everything was immediately happier.
Cons: the steel cable is now exposed, will likely rust inside the sheathing. The cable is looser fit to backing plate, moisture may enter more easily. I globbed some brake lube on it, hoping it’ll tack up and keep water out.This fall I’ll service the rear brakes with new shoes, drums turned, and a new E-brake cable on the passenger side. I built a RockAuto cart for $170 all-in, but not gonna order now.
See pictures. Good Drivers side shown first.
The pass side cable was already showing some rust under the sheathing I stripped, perhaps the rust made the sheathing swell and interfere to its clearance hole.
