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toys-n-yotasKeymasterHmmmm, got a quote of $90+tax to blast my frame. Vs roughly $200 to buy all the tools & consumables. My undersized compressor may be upset running such a big blaster as well. Hmmmm.
Gotta see if my neighbour still has a blasting job he wants completed. That could sway my vote. My other neighbour (next door) has a massive compressor I could borrow, I even have enough airline to run from his garage to the corner of my backyard.
toys-n-yotasKeymasterCome on out to Ardbeg first weekend in Oct to Get an apples-to-apples test of tires š
toys-n-yotasKeymasterWell my test both passed and failed. YES the hardware works outside the cabinet. NO it is not effective for stripping the bike. BECAUSE the hose and nozzle only extend 4ā outside the cabinet. Just a little awkward holding the frame in one hand, and blasting with the other, all the while employing the āanti-blindness safety squintā.
Inquiring into paying for the service vs. buying a gravity feed hopper for $150 from Princess Auto. Leaning towards buying the tool so I can charge others for the service and my time in the future. And who doesnāt love new tools eh.
toys-n-yotasKeymasterLooks awesome for sure. Hope the LC appreciates all your effort to downsize from 37ās.
toys-n-yotasKeymasterLooks pretty good already man! $250 is ridiculous, but I donāt envy you mounting those by hand.
toys-n-yotasKeymasterOn my way into work this morning, I remembered I own a sand blasting cabinet. Will try to run the cabinet without recirculating the sand. @ $12 for a 50 pound bag, way cheaper than buying chemicals or fancy strippers.
Tonight in The Shop, Iāll test the blasting cabinet before buying more media.
toys-n-yotasKeymasterBack to Square 1… …if it was multi-coloured and dipped in surface rust. Not sure exactly how best to attack the round tubing frame to strip the paint, but Iām sure elbow grease is a big component.
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toys-n-yotasKeymasterToday in The Shop, I was pleasantly surprised when two crucial bolts came out relatively easily. Iāve always stuggled to pull the rearswingarm bolt (even invented a puller last time I had to get one out), but this one wasnāt seized anywhere. With it, and the second pivot bolt pulled, the entire āFull Floaterā rear suspension came out as an assembled unit. Three more small bolts and the tail section popped off; fender, luggage rack & taillights. 7 Male-Female connectors separated and the wiring harness came off with ease.
Safe to say I Started making progress in frame painting. The bike will get repainted. Dark Blue for the frame. Semi-gloss black for the motor, pegs and kicker. Grey or perhaps just clear coat on the swingarm. Lots of paint stripping ahead of me still.
toys-n-yotasKeymasterWow you jumped in with both feet, looks real clean under there. Way more fasteners than I thought thereād be.
Hope youāre able to get your paint without much delay.
toys-n-yotasKeymasterYea my buddy James was looking exclusively for Manual trans Toyotas, roughly 2000 and newer. Gonna be fun this fall/winter with an FJ and 4th gen to go touring with when the weather turns. James already putting pencil to paper for storage and bumper ideas.
toys-n-yotasKeymasterMy buddy James just left a deposit on a 2008 FJ with a 6-spd, hopefully heāll be one of our newest members once he takes delivery.
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toys-n-yotasKeymasterI guess the glass half-full means your new rims will fit just fine. Excited to see the new setup.
What tires are you running on the trailer?
toys-n-yotasKeymasterIāve only got a small shopping cart on fortnine. Brake pads, chain, tires (but not set on what I want) oil filters, air filter and a battery. They donāt list my bike exactly, but have listing for an ā85 SP600, nearly identical except for the carb. Unfortunately no listing for fork seals. They have listing for DR350 and DR650, but I havenāt been able to confirm the cross reference between them.
I have OEM part numbers, and they only cross reference 1985-1989 DR500/600. Hopefully the dealership can still find stock on these.
Iām having fun building this bike knowing I donāt HAVE TO turn a profit on it. No money spent yet, but thereās $700 of OEM parts in a shopping cart on bikebandit. Expecting to pay shipping, tax, duty on that crap if my local dealership canāt figure out how to order (then call me for pickup) about 50 small items.
Decided to keep pulling the bike apart to hit the frame with a fresh coat of paint. Currently itās two-tone blue from a bad colour matching rattle can job, and rust at contact surfaces. Figure a couple days of effort in stripping and painting could bring me $500-1000 extra should I sell next year.
Yesterday I sorted out the rear brake lever. At my kijiji review I stepped on the pedal and it failed to return. Pretty much seized in place. Yesterday I drove it 50% out of its sleeve in the frame, and got the rust out. After resetting the tension spring and the lever back on its splines, the pedal moves good as new.
toys-n-yotasKeymasterTo be honest, it is something Iāve never tried. In my 10-ish years of riding, Iāve only had one set of forks which needed new seals put in. I think fear and ignorance have kept me outside of forks so far. The College of Youtube would lead me to believe that getting the forks out/back in the bike is more than half the battle, I really should attempt to replace this set of oil seals. Thanks for the pep talk Steve!
Cleaned up the carb and airbox today. Two jets were a little plugged up, but overall it was very clean inside. Nowhere near the worst carb Iāve torn into.
Had a bit of a scare when I dropped a jet in the lawn, but I found it after 5-mins of thorough (panic-driven) searching. I donāt think the fuel bowl gasket will hold, although itās not ripped anywhere, itās a paper gasket and not very soft anymore. Easy enough fix if it does leak. No luck finding a choke plunger yet. Sent off an email to Mikuni asking which plunger is interchangeable with mine.Also got the last two broken M6 bolts and the key-free steering lock out of the lower steering stem. Hoping I can get a keyed-alike ignition, seat lock and steering lock from Suzuki, but not feeling to confident. My local dealer feels pretty incompetent, or at least unwilling to go any extra distance. Gonna struggle to get the correct fork seals from them too Iām sure.
toys-n-yotasKeymasterToday in The Shop, I payed a little more attention to the DR600S. I started the day by loosely reassembling everything I had, in order to get a good look at what else I may need to buy. Only added a couple little items to the list today: lower chain roller, rubber seat isolator & choke knob. But, I was also able to take a few items off: airbox lid, front sprocket and retainer, oil cooler frame mount. Awesome.
After the photo shoot, I started stripping the bike to power wash it. I donāt like power washing toys, too many nooks/crannies and gaskets to create trouble, but this bike was dirty from sitting, and greasy from leaking front forks.
Now that the bike is drip drying, I pulled the carb off to clean it, (tonight or tomorrow) and removed the front tire to get more access to broken bolts that have to be drilled out. Soon the forks will come out to get rebuilt, just gotta find a local shop to do that.
Iāve been debating tires off and on all day, not sure if I want to get 80/20 or 90/10 ratio for Dirt/Road. I intend to essentially only ride dirt, but donāt want to rattle my brain (or burn off all the tread) should there be a few concessions of asphalt in my tour. I like the big knobby tread pattern of 90/10, but could prolly sacrifice some knob for comfort and forgiveness haha.
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This reply was modified 5 years, 4 months ago by
toys-n-yotas.
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