Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Last night I broke out the welder and started repairing the front body mounts that we’re both cracked and torn. I have started by simply welding closed the cracks after beating them into submission. I made cardboard, then very thin steel templates, but I must recut the filter panels out of a thicker gauge steel. I don’t quite need twice the thickness of what I have, but almost twice.
Two successes last night to write about. I got the rest of the exhaust removed after lowering the section from downpipe to tailpipe, after much closer visual inspection I can probably only reuse one muffler, the rest is quite rusty not sure I can weld to it even.
The second success was successfully separating all connections and dropping the fuel tank. I broken out the floor Jack to help myself lower the tank, however as doon d the last boot was out I realized just how empty the tank was. Maybe there is 2 litres of gas left in it. A super slow leak since July of 2021 has practically fully drained it.
Gahhh!! Dropped the skid plate today to find a BB sized failure point in the very bottom centre if the gas tank. (My finger not pointing, but used to show scale). Pretty sure there’s no way to repair it, pretty annoyed to have to replace the tank, AGAIN!
Attachments:
Spent the weekend participating in a Subaru rally experience, so I got nothing completed in The Shop. Upon returning home I checked in on Redee and got a crazy potent whiff of raw gas, and found a small wet spot under the fuel tank, and the skid plate is saturated in gas **angry face **.
So this week I’m gonna drop the skid plate and try to locate the source. I’m hoping it’s a feed or return line, and not the tank itself which is leaking. That tank was new 4 years ago and shows no physical damage to the sides. Hoping I didn’t puncture or crack the underside of the tank.I’m scrounging around the shop for steel to repair my front body mounts, but have either come up too thin, or way too thick. I will keep searching cause I’m sure I have the winner somewhere, otherwise I’ll pop into Hunter Steel across from work and try to buy some offcuts.
See below my two main areas of concern. I’m glad the repair won’t have to be pretty as the bumper will cover it up when it’s all completed.
I got back out into the shop last night, but I didn’t give it my all haha. I put two hours into replacing the rear seal on the Tcase, and clearing a blockage from a grease fitting. While I had great access to the front drive shaft, I hit the 5 zerks but one just splooged grease all over the nipple. Picks, mechanics wire, PB blaster and compressed air finally broke up the blockage, and I filled the U-joint.
Afterwards I tidied and chilled with Matt getting no further work completed.
This week I hope to do the front diff, and start welding front body mounts and Centre tunnel patch panels.
Couple more pictures
Made some midday progress on the W56 transmission, I thoroughly cleaned then replaced the trans front and rear seals, and the balloting and throw out bearing fork. I stink like varsol, but feel much better having swapped out those two seals.
Next up is the t-case rear output seal that I saw was weeping, but that’ll be after dinner when I get back out to play.
Maybe I’ll attempt to remove the front differential tonight as well, we’ll see how much snack strength I acquire.Small victory last night separating the RF1A transfer case from the Advanced Adapter unit. 6 M8 bolts, and a little wiggle set her free from 25 years of mating. No picture, but a victory all the same.
A couple pictures that James captured from Saturdays wrench-a-thon.
Sunday in the shop allowed me to sweep the floor and regain floor space for upcoming work.
I also had another Kijiji fellow express interest and make an offer which I accepted. Time will tell if he shows up or not.
I have a rock auto shopping cart pegged at $1,543 all-in. Hoping to reduce the final bill by getting some parts locally to save shipping.
I was texting @Finn yesterday to discuss 4.88 gears, I’ve agreed to purchase a set off him, but I can’t make it out to Woodstock till early March. I gotta make my game plan around those dates, so Im ready to install the diffs then the powertrain afterwards. Ive got plenty of work to do still, but I gotta make small steps to keep this momentum.
Thinking that I’ll switch gears briefly to replacing seals and gaskets on the trans and tcase, followed by front diff removal, followed by preservation efforts (rust conversion, paint, undercoating) while I have nearly unlimited access to the underside of Redee.
Attachments:
Ohhhhhh yea baby! Managed to squeeze the SBC out of Redee last night after a handful of hours wrenching. I started my day earlier than usual at about 2 pm, disconnected the fuel lines, the power steering lines, removed the front bumper and grill, drained and removed the rad and E-fans, unbolted engine mounts and lastly cut through the exhaust. The motor was out at 9pm. The shop is a disaster with parts and spilt fluids everywhere, but the Chevy Is out!! Very excited, I hope it’s being picked up on haha
Thanks to James and Matt, each provided some critical help to cross this hurdle.
My plan worked like a charm, I had the drivetrain nearly out when I decided it was best to get a second set of hands. So during the 2nd intermission of the Bruins v Leaf game, Matt popped over and worked the floor Jack.
Freakin’ thrilled to get that auto out!!
I dont get To start in the shop until after dinner time, hard to keep some reserve energy for all this work.
Today i ordered $275 of dealership parts. Gaskets, oil seals and ten torque to yield flywheel bolts at $10.41 each.
Tomorrow I will bring my flywheel to Ideal Supply to be resurfaced for About $125. My other options are to buy a new aftermarket flywheel online for $85 + 70 shipping, locally for $165, or a new OEM for $800. Thinking that resurfacing my $800 oem is the best bet.
Tonight I’m Hoping to get my engine hoist aligned through the hole in the trans tunnel, so I can use it to lower the bell housing of the auto and use the floor Jack under the crossmember. I don’t want to use the floor Jack exclusively as there trans and tcase are hard to balance, nearly dropped the W59 out of the donor 4Runner.
Been multi tasking at work today trying to determine OEM part numbers for seals and gaskets I require in the W56 tranny and RF1A tcase before I stuff them into Redee. I’ve been using Toyodiy for parts lists that are catered directly to my VIN #, and Toyota parts direct for assembly drawings. The former has no images, the latter source has multiple listings for each part despite having put my VIN directly into the website. Annoying to cross reference on an iphone.
Ive got a dealer only parts list on the go, will visit Hallmark Toyota tomorrow and order (or try to) the list.
Will try to make progress in The Shop tonight, kijiji guy has ghosted me
