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Question: what is “dog poop” the filter do it doesn’t piss everywhere? I hate getting my arm, floor or parts covered in dirty oil!
Anything can be dog pooped simply by using a plastic bag to protect one’s hands. It’s one of my favourite adverbs, describing the action of picking up in a “dog poop” manner.
This 3rz oil filter is better than the 22re simply because it installs up wards as opposed to sideways. The flaw in the 3rz is that there’s easily 250 ml of oil in the hoses which lead to the oil filter housing, which drained as soon as the filter was cracked loose.Worked on Redees cooling system last night. I unboxed and test fit the new HD rad, then decided it fit so well I sent the bolts home. This rad is gorgeous, 2” thick, all aluminum, and appears to be a perfect fit. Unfortunately it came with additional output bungs welded to the bottom, so Ill just loop a hose between them to close that bypass. In the future i could use it for hot water system, or reintroduce the rear heater…but Redee is a summer machine so rear heat not a priority.
Today I ordered new Upper and lower rad hoses because they looked original and kinda swollen. Last night when i pulled the old hoses I cleaned corrosion off the hose inlets to the motor. The upper hose will be a couple days to arrive, so Ill keep working elsewhere in cooling system. Perhaps the heater core plumbing. Basically I have all the hoses and bits I need, just have to rearrange and shorten them accordingly.
Hopefully this system will be buttoned up this week.I’ll move onto the power steering after. Really I just need to get the high pressure hose flared with the proper fitting for the first gen steering gear. Prolly just gonna harvest the fitting off the power steering hose I had mattered to the SBC power steering pump.
The new rad hoses and fuel filter have arrived at my local Davenports for pickup today, hopefully tonight I can throw them all in and keep plugging away on the cooling system.
Last night i determined that my Princess auto flare kit is not strong enough to add a single male flare to the OEM Fuel hard line, so I’ll prolly just add an extra high-pressure hose clamp for redundancy (safety).Well I got the new fuel filter and rad hoses installed. The lower rad hose seems dangerously close to the fan, I suppose that’s where a shroud could act as a physical barrier.
I still have to make the 3rz talk to my heater core, but that’ll be my next night in The Shop.
I decided to keep the original flex fuel line into the fuel filter original, and add a small flare to a chunk of the donor trucks body hard line. This way should I need to remove the engine again in the future, I can separate a union on the inner fender, vs pulling in flex line off the inlet of the fuel filter. Saving myself a future headache.
I have located the fuel return line on both Redee and the 3rz, just gotta connect then another night.Attachments:
The boat from China arrived, and the supply chain delivered my MAF sensor adapter. Perhaps tonight I’ll mock it up, and figure out what kind of bracket I need to fabricate to mount it to the inner fender.
Tonight I’m also going to cut a couple inches off my fuel supply and return lines, so I can buy 10-15 ft of each diameter.
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I spent last night watching a movie with me lady, so clearly nothing got done on Redee.
Today i bought some gasket paper for the MAF adapter, and enough 1/4” fuel hose to connect the fuel return line to the original hard lines on the firewall.
For the fuel supply line, I struck out at the local shop trying to buy 5/16” high pressure hose. When i got home from work I tore into my hose and tube stash, and located the 10ft roll of 5/16” hard line I bought to plumb the SBC back in 2018. Anyways, rather than replace the entire length of the rubber hose, I intend to extend an intermediate hard line (about 6” long) with a new section long enough to get my existing hose to the drivers side inner fender. Pretty hard to explain, but I’m $0 for a hard line as opposed to about $75 for new a new rubber hose.
Have to wait and see what I accomplish during my next shop session.
I started fitting in the cone filter, but got stuck between a fuse box and a rad hose. My options are too move the fuse box towards the firewall, or shim the air filter closer to the rad.
My plan is to fab a spacer between the MAF sensor and adapter. Need about 1-2”Over last two weeks i chipped away at my MAF sensor spacer, and finally have something i can work with.
I’ve still got some tweaking and shaping to do, and rig up a mount somehow, but getting much closer.Bit by bit indeed, trying to keep focused.
I bought the RedLine at my local Davenports. They stock MTL, and I said I want MT-90 cause it’s a GL-4… they told me, no problem we’ll order it in for tomorrow. How many? Think i paid $30 each.
The other day I trimmed down my MAF adapter spacer, and finished making gaskets for it. Technically the spacer is complete, but I still need to figure out a way to mount it to the inner fender or battery box area cause it’s way too heavy to dangle, and i don’t want vibration to break or chaffe away at the intake pipe or upper rad hose. There is a sliver of light on both sides, meaning i am not touching the fuse box or rad hose. But i must secure it precisely here.
Last night i got into the shop pretty early, and made progress on a couple items.
I added the required RTV to my MAF sensor block, basically as another physical barrier on top of the cork gasket.
I bent up a thin piece of wire to mockup the MAF block mounting bracket. On Tuesday or weds after work i gotta grab a piece of flat bar to bend up.
Thirdly I formed, connected, and restrained a fuel supply hard line from the tank to the firewall. Now i only need about 2ft of high pressure hose to complete that circuit.
Pretty productive evening, but that may just be about all ill get done this weekend. My hunny works nights for the whole long weekend, so I’ll be daddy on duty through to Tuesday return to work/school.
I abandoned the wire mounting because the mounting feet got pretty complicated. So I broke out the cardboard and a flat plate of 10ga.
I used two of the MAF bolts, and two holes (one existing) in the inner fender. The fit is nearly perfect, just gotta primer and paint, and make a gasket to prevent a squeak.Up next, the fan shroud is getting modified.
Started cutting the fan shroud into important pieces today with A hacksaw and piece of 2×4 as a straight edge.
Bfore I can start reconnecting the important parts, I have to pull the radiator out. There’s only 4 bolts holding it in, so it’ll be quick work.
Perhaps later tonight I’ll get another chance to start piecing it back together.Attachments:
Made a few more cuts in the fan shroud Important pieces, and have come up with something pretty decent. A dozen hot staples of various shapes have it holding together well. Tomorrow I’m going to add a couple tubes of epoxy or JB plastic to really solidify the joints. I don’t want this to get eaten by the fan.
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