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Redee – 1986 4Runner

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Viewing 13 posts - 616 through 628 (of 628 total)
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    Tied on an epoxy buzz last night, less than desirable, but the results are OK.

    Just need to source some clips that’ll hold the two pieces together. The former bolt flange is now too thin to get a faster into.

    I have some mystery clips in my tool box that may suffice, but I want to find “the next size up” of this clip to be really secure.

    The lower edge of the shroud is pretty thin because the fan rides low on the rad, so I had to add a rubber foot in the midpoint to prevent the shroud from flexing towards the rad. Might be overkill, but it also might fall off quickly.


    Well perseverance paid off last night, snd I found the clip I require to fasten the two parts together. I believe what I have found are hinges for a glass door, once upon a time from an entertainment unit.

    I only have 2, so I’ll be hitting up the Home Depot trying to find two more.

    I have to grind the pivot point off, and add some blue loctite to the tiny Phillips machine screws.


    Made great progress last night, many thanks to Matts genius idea.

    A little back story first. The clips I found through rummaging about are effectively known as “Glass Door Pivots”, basically the hinge for old stereo cabinets. I KNOW I have at least 5 more glass doors or shelves kicking about my belongings, but after an hour of searching I gave up and took to google trying to buy two additional pivots. After coming up dry locally, I was looking at roughly $5 ea online, plus shipping, about $20 total.

    Enter Matt.

    Tom: “Blah blah blah, $20 for two more brackets, blah blah blah”

    Matt: “Hey, those brackets are pretty beefy… could you just cut them in half?”

    My hero. 20 seconds later they are cut, deburred, and being installed with blue locetite.

    Then I got the rad installed, fine tuned the position of the shroud and snugged it down, installed the extension piece to protect bottom of blades, and tweaked the upper rad hose for lil extra clearance to the MAF sensor (1 finger clearance).

    I was considering tweaking the lower rad hose, but a lingering headache said “Oh no you don’t!”, so I called it quits for the night.

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by toys-n-yotas.

    Somewhere between a massive headache, and fever I managed to adapt my power steering system to the 3RZ. It was partially luck, partially good planning, as the high-pressure hose I had modified for the SBC in 2018 was a direct fit to the 3RZ outlet. I was not able to keep the vacuum operated metering valve, so I figure my steering will always feel pretty light. That’s ok with me, the Grant steering wheel is pretty small in diameter, I appreciate a lil extra assist.
    The low pressure hose is nothing special, I reused 60% of the 3RZ hose.

    Up next i gotta tidy up the lower rad hose routing, still too close to the fan blades and/or alternator.


    Last night I crossed two more tasks off my list. I finished the power steering system by calling off the two now unused vacuum ports on the intake. I finished the fuel system by connecting a piece of fuel hose to the two exposed hard lines, one on the firewall and the other on the inner fender.

    Gotta order a piece of rad hose, and source a coupler so I can connect two rubber hoses together. I did this same task on the old SBC, but haven’t found a decent picture of what the coupler looks like. I’m sure i bought it at Home Hardware in town though.


    I picked up that lower rad hose, it looked too small in diameter, but I was able to slip it over the bung with some effort. Still just gotta bring my butt to home hardware and locate another coupler or two. I think I have to cut my 3RZ lower hose twice to get it to bend correctly.

    I also ran the 3RZ engine harness into the cabin through the passenger footwell. I had to pull the charcoal canister to get the harness laying properly, but it is back in place again.


    Finished the lower rad hose. Won’t be as efficient as the original with two couplers in-line to make the hoses bend properly. But the oversized rad and modified shroud should more than compensate.

    With exception to adding coolant, I believe only the electrical and exhaust systems remain.


    A clear change of task with Redee, 3RZ donor harnesses, switches and computers lying all over the place. I compiled and printed 5 pages off Ih8mud, it’s way easier to use in the shop as a paper copy.

    I’m going to thin out the harness in the workbench for sure, I only need a couple wires out of it, mainly the alternator and starter relay.

    From The body harness on the floor I require about a dozen wires, and a couple of the computers. I think I’m going to thin out what I need, it’ll make tucking what I do need behind the dash a whole lot easier.


    Gahhhh, 1 day in on wiring and My head is in circles. I’ve started by thinning out the “under hood fuse box” harness, because most of its task is the lighting up front. Well there’s also a wee bit of alternator and starter wiring in that bunch. Trying hard to dig out the wires i need, preserve the rest so perhaps i can sell it off…$5 is better than $0

    Anyways, I thought it was going well, but I’m dealing with a self induced spider web, so it’s fairly overwhelming. Still haven’t cut any wires, but have de-pinned and pushed about 50 out of their connectors. Not saying there’s no going back, but it’ll be a significant investment in time to re-pin that fuse box.

    Trying to figure out how and where to make the 3RZ alternator talk to the 22RE harness.


    I found a FSM for the 3rd Gen 4Runner, hopefully that’ll allow me to be fully satisfied and confident to cut a few more wires out of the engine bay fuse box.

    The spiders web of obsolete wires on my workbench. 90% have been disconnected, just 4 or 5 I have to decide whether to de-pin or cut.


    I’m overwhelmed just looking at that mess of wires


    Oh buddy it gets super overwhelming in no time flat, trying to decide whether to cut or just de-pin is a headache… one way is slightly more reversible than the other, but equally a pain.

    Spent 2-hours last night just pouring between two wiring diagrams, muttering to myself and tracing wires with a flashlight. trying to get more comfortable before i tear apart the in-car harness


    As I continue to trace wires and read diagrams, the more confused I’m getting.

    For example, one source I’ve found quite reputable says I need to use the donor “Under Hood fuse box”, but only ONE wire from it needs to go through the firewall into the cab. That wire goes to the starter solenoid, it needs a +12V when in Start. As far as I’ve dug, all the other wires in that fuse box and harness are essentially for the front end lights. IF I ONLY need the one wire, and it is one of the 4 pins within the ALTERNATOR connector (which I’m cutting off to wire into the OEM harness under the hood), why do I need the full rats nest of wires? That has me stumped. Trying to wrap my head around it………

    The other wire I am trying to simplify is the main high power out of the ALTERNATOR. Pretty sure I’m just gonna tie into the OEM junction bulkhead on the drivers fender.

    Redee hasn’t been helping me much in this endeavour either. Seems she has BOTH 22R and 22RE pigtail connectors throughout, especially behind the dash. Tried for 15 mins to locate the 5-wire A/C harness as per 22RE schematic, to finally say F’it, and just start probing for continuity, locating it in a 4-wire connector for 22R motors.

    I’ve also had to un-modify the starter relay, as previously I did the HOT WIRE mod to bypass a bunch of circuit. Anyways, I couldn’t figure out how to keep that mood, and wire up the 3RZ harness.

    I also found out why Redee wouldn’t charge very well with the old SBC…. The GM alternator had a big ground wire on the backside of it, which went into a non-OEM sealed 4-pin connector, and then went NOWHERE. Another hour or so trying to understand and trace wires and understand some more, yielded the results that the SBC ALTERNATOR was completely un-grounded…so likely never worked. Shitty part is that when I snapped a belt a few years back, the gauge correctly showed NO CHARGE condition.

    Learning lots, wishing I could just make progress, but this puzzle is thick. My brain hurts again.

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