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Spent the first half hour of my morning making a switch holder for the mirror mount, only to discover I didn’t have enough depth to mount them up there. Oh well, guess that means they gotta go in the shifter surround.
AND….Voila, installed.
The compressor is mounted behind the wall, almost perfectly behind the roll bar. Made drilling the mounting holes a pain, but the wasted space is now used.
I did not have to extend any wires, splice anything, or run new circuits. I grabbed 12V power from the rear defrost (which I’ll never use), rated at 20 amps, and I had a tagged “dash illumination” wire from last winter. Everything else was plug and play.
I’m more than a little annoyed the 1/4 NPT tee fitting that came with my ARB pump up kit has shitty threads and won’t hand thread into the pump housing, The pressure sensor, and air chuck all thread in just fine, but the male end of the tee is NFG. So those parts are back into the box for another day.
Now it’s time for lunch, then a road test. But where’s all the snow??
Well the snow arrived, lots of wind made huge drifts. Took Redee out for a romp to the grocery store.
I tested the rear locker, and have to re-check for air leaks. Although the locker activates, the compressor has to run too frequently (3-mins of driving); according to the manual the pump should run at 15-minute intervals if the system is without leaks.
The leak got a bunch worse to where the compressor would run non-stop when the locker solenoid was open. I sprayed the entire tube run with soapy water, to find the leak at the rear diff.
I pulled the compression fitting apart and found a few cracks in the tube on the wrong side of the ferrule.
After 2 days of searching, I’ve discovered that a 5mm brass ferrule is tough to find. Anything from ARB itself is pretty crazy expensive, before tax/duty/exchange and comes as part of a kit. I found a couple 4wheel-drive places online selling a single ferrule for $1.57-3.00 each, but a shipping quote to my address was $65-80!!! No way José.
I’ve ended up buying a 10-pack from across the pond for about $9CDN.
Long story short, I could sell my remaining 9 ferrules for $10/each and make back my money 10-fold!! Prolly just keep them for spares, hook a buddy up should the need arise.
Also for sale, 19 tach conversion resistors for I4 / V6 to V8 😉
Yup, good catch Steve.
Ebay converted my money at $1CDN – $0.55GBP. Costs me roughly $9.50 to the door.
Yesterday while headed home on Hwy 89 from an adventure drive with my girls, I had a good samaritan roll down a window and shout across at me “you’re dragging a light!”
I thanked the motorist, and pulled off at the next sideroad to take a look.
….I was infact dragging a light. It was my 3ft long Motomaster LED shop light. It had been dragging for at least, bare minimum 35km…mostly unpaved. Damn. Although I hated that light, I had hoped it would lived a few years longer. No need to fuss, brainfart already happened.
(placed back for re-enactment)I unwedged the light, threw in the roof basket, and decided to test it later…doesn’t look too broken.
Why would you drag your light so far? Some kind of weird test?
Well let me explain to you the dangers of wrenching with Children. Just as I finished up searching ARB air leaks under Redee, one of my children asks “why are you under Red truckee?” A simple explanation won’t satisfy my girls, they’ve been taught to question their surroundings and learn all they can. Can’t stop that good inquiry in the shop. So I setup my LED lightbar and start the lesson.
90 seconds later, the lesson moves inside Redee about the switches that make the loud noise (ARB compressor) turn on. Naturally, to keep her interest, I respond quickly. Lightbar instantly forgotten, battery died, 6-hours later ADVENTURE DRIVE!!!!!
Anyways, I’m not here to be a paid spokesperson, but this friggen lightbar still works. I’ve sat on it, stepped on it, (threw it once in anger), let it freeze, and now dragged it under Redee through slush and mud, STILL FREAKIN’ WORKS ! Best $27 I spent on a flashlight, other than the fact it blinds me 1/2 the time I use it. That’s due to its stupid octagonal shape, and not resisting rolling well enough.
The damage. A little custom grind to one handle. The magnetic base, and easy to hang hook both road casualties.Happy wrenching everybody. Be careful when children, or flashlights are around.
LOL.
I have a mini fluorescent lamp on a retractable cord, hanging from the garage ceiling. makes it a little harder to forget about it, as I can see the yellow leash wrapped around the mirror or something…
Thanks Kev, worth all the busted knuckles when the girls are thrilled to go for a drive.
Had an anxious end to our adventure drive. A weird *Pang* under the hood, followed by a burning rubber smell. The CHARGE light on the dash confirmed I was without an alternator belt.
I pulled off the road, popped the hood to retrieve the broken belt from under their. 20 km of hills to get home. Lights, radio, heater off, and a steady drive home.
Get home, pull the hood latch again to put the charger on the battery, and nothing happens. The sheathing on the hood end of the release cable has popped out of place. “F*#% me. Seriously? Wtf?”
I got the hood popped through the grill, put a zip tie to prevent the sheathing from popping out again, and will get a new belt tomorrow, or the next day.
Took Redee out for a tour with Matt and his 4th gen. I didn’t get any pics, but his LTX’s and perma-traction control got him stuck. The big duratracs and no-nannies got me close enough for a rescue.
On the 2nd recovery of his 4th gen, we very swiftly removed Redee’s bumper. I knew it wasn’t load bearing, but used it anyways. Foolish.
Torn between welding it on better, vs making one from scratch.
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