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Gahhhh, 1 day in on wiring and My head is in circles. I’ve started by thinning out the “under hood fuse box” harness, because most of its task is the lighting up front. Well there’s also a wee bit of alternator and starter wiring in that bunch. Trying hard to dig out the wires i need, preserve the rest so perhaps i can sell it off…$5 is better than $0
Anyways, I thought it was going well, but I’m dealing with a self induced spider web, so it’s fairly overwhelming. Still haven’t cut any wires, but have de-pinned and pushed about 50 out of their connectors. Not saying there’s no going back, but it’ll be a significant investment in time to re-pin that fuse box.
Trying to figure out how and where to make the 3RZ alternator talk to the 22RE harness.
A clear change of task with Redee, 3RZ donor harnesses, switches and computers lying all over the place. I compiled and printed 5 pages off Ih8mud, it’s way easier to use in the shop as a paper copy.
I’m going to thin out the harness in the workbench for sure, I only need a couple wires out of it, mainly the alternator and starter relay.
From The body harness on the floor I require about a dozen wires, and a couple of the computers. I think I’m going to thin out what I need, it’ll make tucking what I do need behind the dash a whole lot easier.
Yesterday in The Shop, I also got the Chinese bike up and running. A series of small changes, not sure which was most significant, but the bike fired on first kick.
I lazily cleaned the carb with Karb Kleaner and compressed air, set the idle speed up a lil bit, cleaned and gapped the spark plug, cleaned the air filter, tightened the rear sprocket, lubed the chain, reset the valve clearance, and changed the oil.
Preston is pleased, gonna pick up the beast later today.
Speak of the devil, Matt just wandered over, fired the bike on the first kick, and the weak and grainy horn honked sorta. Success.
Today in The Shop, I used an hour after my lunch today to fix the horn switch on Matts bike.
Late last year he bought a new left side control switch, does the horn turn signals hi/low beam and flash to pass functions. His old switch was smashed and broken and did not control the lights properly, most of the time they did not work…but the horn definitely worked. Cut to spring time and we replaced the damaged switch for the ebay unit, and the headlights work like a charm, but the horn no longer did.
I briefly investigated the old switch and it appeared as though the actual switch part was serviceable.Cut to today, I serviced the switch, cleaning both halves of the contacts. With all the tiny parts and springs back in place, the horn still didn’t honk. Add in a mostly-dead yellow top, and the horn would “click”…sorta. That means the switch is working, just that the two combined batteries weren’t putting out the required 12V to fire off the horn.
Now I’m just waiting for Matt to come over and kick start the old girl so we can give her a stamp of approval.
We had contemplated fixing the switch last night, but it was already too late to begin such a high-precision activity.
My neighbour son has a 110cc Chinese dirtbike that needs some attention. Buddy doesnt know anything about it, as it came from the ex’s house.
What I can see is a leaking petcock, some frayed cables, very wet spark plug, and a loose rear sprocket. Not much i can do about a few of those items, but I’ll do my best to get it running again for him. Thinking an air filter and spark plug may go a ways to lean it out some. I’ll also check the valve clearance, assuming it’s never been checked before.
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Finished the lower rad hose. Won’t be as efficient as the original with two couplers in-line to make the hoses bend properly. But the oversized rad and modified shroud should more than compensate.
With exception to adding coolant, I believe only the electrical and exhaust systems remain.
I picked up that lower rad hose, it looked too small in diameter, but I was able to slip it over the bung with some effort. Still just gotta bring my butt to home hardware and locate another coupler or two. I think I have to cut my 3RZ lower hose twice to get it to bend correctly.
I also ran the 3RZ engine harness into the cabin through the passenger footwell. I had to pull the charcoal canister to get the harness laying properly, but it is back in place again.
Today in The Shop, Truckee got fresh blood. I had a morning to myself while the kids are at their grandparents house, so I dig into my overdue maintenance list.
I changed the front and rear diff oils, then the tcase and finally the trans. I think I nearly doubled the recommended fluid change interval, but the oil in everything looked great and smelled very tolerable. I was pleasantly surprised everytime I pulled a drain plug, so Yay!
As a bonus, I re-installed the URD short throw shifter I purchased and installed a decade ago, but removed prior to a warranty claim I was going to make. I’m fairly certain I removed the shifter in roughly 2016/17. It’s been sitting in a box longer than it’s been on truckee, so today was the day I fixed that imbalance.
No pictures from today, nothing terribly exciting happened.
Last night I crossed two more tasks off my list. I finished the power steering system by calling off the two now unused vacuum ports on the intake. I finished the fuel system by connecting a piece of fuel hose to the two exposed hard lines, one on the firewall and the other on the inner fender.
Gotta order a piece of rad hose, and source a coupler so I can connect two rubber hoses together. I did this same task on the old SBC, but haven’t found a decent picture of what the coupler looks like. I’m sure i bought it at Home Hardware in town though.
Somewhere between a massive headache, and fever I managed to adapt my power steering system to the 3RZ. It was partially luck, partially good planning, as the high-pressure hose I had modified for the SBC in 2018 was a direct fit to the 3RZ outlet. I was not able to keep the vacuum operated metering valve, so I figure my steering will always feel pretty light. That’s ok with me, the Grant steering wheel is pretty small in diameter, I appreciate a lil extra assist.
The low pressure hose is nothing special, I reused 60% of the 3RZ hose.Up next i gotta tidy up the lower rad hose routing, still too close to the fan blades and/or alternator.
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Made great progress last night, many thanks to Matts genius idea.
A little back story first. The clips I found through rummaging about are effectively known as “Glass Door Pivots”, basically the hinge for old stereo cabinets. I KNOW I have at least 5 more glass doors or shelves kicking about my belongings, but after an hour of searching I gave up and took to google trying to buy two additional pivots. After coming up dry locally, I was looking at roughly $5 ea online, plus shipping, about $20 total.
Enter Matt.
Tom: “Blah blah blah, $20 for two more brackets, blah blah blah”
Matt: “Hey, those brackets are pretty beefy… could you just cut them in half?”
My hero. 20 seconds later they are cut, deburred, and being installed with blue locetite.
Then I got the rad installed, fine tuned the position of the shroud and snugged it down, installed the extension piece to protect bottom of blades, and tweaked the upper rad hose for lil extra clearance to the MAF sensor (1 finger clearance).
I was considering tweaking the lower rad hose, but a lingering headache said “Oh no you don’t!”, so I called it quits for the night.
Well perseverance paid off last night, snd I found the clip I require to fasten the two parts together. I believe what I have found are hinges for a glass door, once upon a time from an entertainment unit.
I only have 2, so I’ll be hitting up the Home Depot trying to find two more.
I have to grind the pivot point off, and add some blue loctite to the tiny Phillips machine screws.
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Tied on an epoxy buzz last night, less than desirable, but the results are OK.
Just need to source some clips that’ll hold the two pieces together. The former bolt flange is now too thin to get a faster into.
I have some mystery clips in my tool box that may suffice, but I want to find “the next size up” of this clip to be really secure.
The lower edge of the shroud is pretty thin because the fan rides low on the rad, so I had to add a rubber foot in the midpoint to prevent the shroud from flexing towards the rad. Might be overkill, but it also might fall off quickly.
Made a few more cuts in the fan shroud Important pieces, and have come up with something pretty decent. A dozen hot staples of various shapes have it holding together well. Tomorrow I’m going to add a couple tubes of epoxy or JB plastic to really solidify the joints. I don’t want this to get eaten by the fan.
