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The leak got a bunch worse to where the compressor would run non-stop when the locker solenoid was open. I sprayed the entire tube run with soapy water, to find the leak at the rear diff.
I pulled the compression fitting apart and found a few cracks in the tube on the wrong side of the ferrule.
After 2 days of searching, I’ve discovered that a 5mm brass ferrule is tough to find. Anything from ARB itself is pretty crazy expensive, before tax/duty/exchange and comes as part of a kit. I found a couple 4wheel-drive places online selling a single ferrule for $1.57-3.00 each, but a shipping quote to my address was $65-80!!! No way José.
Hey @Benlamers your bumper trim and paracord wrap looks great!
Patches from Whistler to Ottawa, were those earned in the 4Runner for those trips?
Well the snow arrived, lots of wind made huge drifts. Took Redee out for a romp to the grocery store.
I tested the rear locker, and have to re-check for air leaks. Although the locker activates, the compressor has to run too frequently (3-mins of driving); according to the manual the pump should run at 15-minute intervals if the system is without leaks.
Hey that looks awesome, sounds like ideal fitment too. Only concern is the not off-road outer bumper, leaves the fender and headlight unprotected.
Spent the first half hour of my morning making a switch holder for the mirror mount, only to discover I didn’t have enough depth to mount them up there. Oh well, guess that means they gotta go in the shifter surround.
AND….Voila, installed.
The compressor is mounted behind the wall, almost perfectly behind the roll bar. Made drilling the mounting holes a pain, but the wasted space is now used.
I did not have to extend any wires, splice anything, or run new circuits. I grabbed 12V power from the rear defrost (which I’ll never use), rated at 20 amps, and I had a tagged “dash illumination” wire from last winter. Everything else was plug and play.
I’m more than a little annoyed the 1/4 NPT tee fitting that came with my ARB pump up kit has shitty threads and won’t hand thread into the pump housing, The pressure sensor, and air chuck all thread in just fine, but the male end of the tee is NFG. So those parts are back into the box for another day.
Now it’s time for lunch, then a road test. But where’s all the snow??
Thanks Steve, I’ve never had overhead switches, so not sure what to expect.
I know that both switches are illuminated, one of the wires I tagged in the harness was for “dash illumination”.
I’m trying to factor the likelihood of the switches being activated accidentally, or damaged from my children climbing around if I put them down low by the shifter. That would be the easier location to mount to, and right at hand when it’s time to activate them, but there’s no “cool points” to gain.
Overhead has plenty of cool, and all the new TRD Offroads have their crawl control wizardry up there.
kinda leaning towards overhead, so long as I can rig up a mounting plate that looks half-decent, since I’ll be forced to look at it frequently.
It would appear I also have enough slack to mount the switches overhead. It’ll fit sorta wedged between the sun visor, and black post of the mirror hanger.
Overhead switches are cool, but do I want illuminated switches so close to my mirror? Nighttime glare y’know.
Thoughts??
Due to the fact Shelburne has 15-20cm of snowfall in the forecast, and the mechanical side of the locker is working, I’m really motivated to get the compressor sorted out.
Today I unpacked all the boxes, and laid out the harness inside Redee. It looks like I only need to extend one wire from the switch bank to the drivers side fender where I plan to get IGN switched power from the Defrost circuit.
Mocked up location for the compressor and locker switch.
Tomorrow I have to remove the spare tire and a car seat to mount the compressor in the cargo area.
Today I clearanced the last interference on the steering shaft, that only occurs when going uphill reverse turning left, like into my driveway from the road. Anyways, it’s gone now.
I also dialed in the tach again today. The needle sits low below 1200 rpm, but is nearly spot on to 3,000. I didn’t go any faster than that.
Evan, I am a Duratrac guy and can’t sing their praises highly enough! I have run 3 different sizes on 3 different vehicles. Winters, towing, Ardbeg, no complaints.
That being said, don’t buy wider than necessary. Skinny is better. I find that Redee floats wearing 12.5” (315mm) where Truckee (Tacoma) wears stock 10.5” (265mm) width and performs a little better.
I have 85,000km on Truckee’s set, and they are just OK this winter, if they were unsafe I’d have replaced them already. (My wife’s caravan is running snows on steelies and it grips way more on hard packed snow). They are noisy, and unbalanced but that started around 70’000 mark when my alignment, balljoints and steering took a dump. The front left corner of Truckee was chewing up tires, feathering the inner treads visibly.
I bought <b>LT</b>265/70-17 for Truckee, and will get exactly the same thing sometime this year.
For Redee, I will buy skinnier ones next time.
Today I adjusted the tach 1/4 turn lower, will see how it affects as the rpm gets above idle.
I also swapped out a couple led bulbs which have the polarity indicated for the turn signals. Now they illuminate in the gauge cluster. Sweet.
Also power washed Redee. Girls should be happy to see when ai get them from school.
Redee tucked in for the night after burbling my kids to sleep. Teamwork right.
I had to put the fender flares back on, at least till I get skinnier tires. I am trying to get Matt’s pitted OEM 17’s off his 4Runner for $50, the Michelin LTX’s on them are worthless, and rims need some refinishing. Perhaps next winters project. Back to the flares, On Saturday we went out cruising and my side windows were 80% covered by road spray, with the flares on it went down to about 10% coverage. Worth it.
