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It’s funny (err, effing annoying) what dealerships are willing to tell you, and not willing. Low brake shoes, are great info to share. But had you come back with a squeak out of the back end, there’d be another $500 bill for them.
Took Redee out on a tour today, had some good and bads.
Good: ARB locker worked great.
Bad: she got hot climbing uphill, the e-fan is pretty small.
Started misfiring, popped the hood and found two loose spark plug wires on the distributor….again. Gotta open up the male contacts so they grab the cap tighter. There’s no definitive ‘click’ when they’re seated together.
The trans (or something touching it) makes a tin-can-BB rattle, or sloppy chain noise from 1900-2300 rpm at 15-80% throttle. Happens in any gear, any road speed as long as rpm is in the described range. This one will be a pain to diagnose, cause it doesn’t happen in park or neutral. Gotta spend some time on my back under Redee searching for metal on metal (or metal near metal) contact. The noise is truly awful.Stopped to explore, perfect opportunity to reattach plug wires, and refill PS reservoir.
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Yea I hear you on that. Time to fix things Before shit gets broken (or more broken) from spring/summer fun.
I’ve gotta do the noble thing, and yank that stupid front bumper so I can properly size up an E-fan big enough for the job. I was sitting right at 222F (185F t-stat) with the fan on, and slow travel speed. It didn’t feel like I was workin’ Redee that hard, but the temp kept climbing till I pulled onto a real road and got more airflow through the rad.
Apparently rattly and noisy TH350’s are common (not surprised in the least bit), and the lowest hanging fruit is the flexplate. Cracked flexplate can make the rattle I was hearing, would make sense why it only happens under load. I plan to remove the inspection cover tonight and look it over. Only two small bolts holding it in place.
While under Redee last night I found the speedo cable retaining nut is also rotten out of the t-case. Still gotta lookup that PN from toyodiy.com. I Also found the shifter cable for TH350 is in pretty bad shape too, sheathing missing and a few broken strands. ALL of these findings are compounding to have me once again planning a tranny swap. I want OVERDRIVE so badly haha. Auto keeps it easy to drive, manual would make it way more fun….still torn. Cost analysis says neither swap are worth the gas savings haha
Same here, that’s my preferred trans, but I worry that anything South of the clutch would be short-lived. But I love engine braking and rowing my own gears.
Found this on kijiji, comes with flexplate, TC and NP241C t-case.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-transmission-drive-train/kitchener-waterloo/4×4-transmission-transfer-case/1489680790Rusty cables starting to fail.
Spent some time under Redee today, and The flexplate is both of high-quality, and without cracks (that I can see). However when I lowered to dust shield, a Toyota OEM M8x20mm bolt fell to the ground. No reason why that should be in there other than a lucky bounce as it fell from somewhere higher.
I also pulled and more firmly attached all 8 plug wires to the distributor cap. I guessing the NAPA economy line is just adequate, and requires the consumer to be more diligent…or I just have shit luck.
So far the cause of the horrible noise has not been discovered, but I’ll keep searching.
Hoping it wasn’t detonation I was hearing. The distributor base was very snug, doubt it spun and sent out timing. Will put the timing light on it later.
Uggghh, I hurt Redee. Went to throw the timing light on, and the horrible noise persists, intensified even. Fudge!
Gotta swap my timing light investigation with a compression tester investigation. Hoping I did not destroy something inside the right bank.
Glad I didn’t pay the insurance premium yet.
Hooray for finding another thing!
So, compression is great across the board, high being 155, low at 145, and 6/8 at 150 on the nose.
Pulled the rocker cover on the noisier side, and everything appears great.
Dropped my Mastercraft inspection camera into all 8 spark plug holes, nothing wierd from what I see.
Pulled the trans dust cover, and spun the crankshaft by hand, the SFI flexplate is completely free of cracks. There are however a couple missing teeth and a bunch of chipped ones.
With the plugs still out, I ran the starter. Below is the picture I took, with the IGN off. Starter gear, fully engaged still on the flywheel. This would make one hell of a racket, especially once the revs build up eh? Gonna do my best to shim it, see if that cures my “death rattle”. When I started Redee this morning, I was damn sure something internal to the motor, was doing it’s best to get out!
Thanks Evan, felt good finding a root cause. I’m just glad the gear finally stuck long enough so that I could see it being stuck. Monday night when I pulled the dust cover the first time, the starter was not stuck to the flexplate.
Lazyness took over at 10:30 last night. Nothing was put back together, no tools put away, starter not removed to find suitable repair parts. Lazyness haha
Two bolts. Two freakin’ bolts hold the starter to the block, figured I coulda finished in one day. Not the case.
The outboard bolt could be turned about 1/4 at a time with a 9/16” wrench. Once un-threaded, the bolt bottomed on a body mount before it cleared the body mount, so it had to get cut into 4 pieces to come out. That was the easy bolt.
Still working on the inboard bolt. It would turn 1/16 rev at a time, until it stopped. Working with cutting tools now.
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STOP THE MONKEY FLIPPIN’ CLOCK!! The old starter is finally out, 3-days later.
When we last left, one bolt was out.
The second required a little more coaxing from my angle grinder, then reciprocating saw. Yea, I wedged a sawzall between the frame, engine, trans, trans and fuel lines to cut that last fucker out.
No damage to anything except the starter. Rebuilding it is no longer an option ahaha
Beer-O-clock now.Attachments:
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