Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
So my 4 gauge jumper cables arrived, and i think “overkill” may just be the definition there.
I measured the diameter of the The wire that I removed, Andy after removing the protective sheath, discovered a splice at the midpoint. One side measured in at about 0.150” for 7 gauge wire, the other half was a measly 0.080” making it 12 gauge. Once again I guess i stress for nothing, what i bought is way more than necessary. A shame to chop up these new jumper cables
Attachments:
Well there’s a good reason Redee has been parked in the exact same spot for almost 2 full years haha. I usually charge my neighbours, but I’ll take on easy jobs for beers. Bicycles for the kids and wives are free, just gotta soft spot for bicycles.
Today I cut down my spare tire, not my favourite task, hurts me to cut truckee. Tried to scrape rusty off the bolts, got them soaking in PB, maybe I’ll be able to remove the hanger and replace it with another that I have. Also must try to locate that…once upon a time i knew exactly where i put it.
Attachments:
Went to Sauble Falls provincial park with my family Fri-Sun, went to black lake with my buddies thurs-sun. I’m thoroughly camped for the time being, still jonesing for more though.
We were able to camp on the point, didn’t even see/hear another vehicle till Saturday morning, was so quiet.Made some effort into wiring Redee the other day. Got the alternator connected to oem wiring, and am waiting on 4-gauge wire to finish connecting the relocated battery to the fuse box under hood.
Well another week of speaking in PB has yielded no results, gotta break out the electric knife and metal go-back-together machines.
Last couple of days I’ve been working on atvs. About 2.5 years ago I bought an LT80 for my kids and parked it in the shed. I dragged it out, and spent some money recently. For $100 I bought a new carb, Petcock, starter relay and brake cables. Everything except the relay has arrived, and the atv starts and idles great, takes throttle but has no travel speed at all, like 10km/h screaming like it’s doing 1,000,000. The internet suggests i tear into my clutches, expecting to find the primary clutch either filthy or worn out, the belt very thin or wet, or secondary clutch sticky. Regardless I’m not interested in doing any of this, juuust wanna sell the MF’r. It’s much too loud for in town (thanks to a D&G race pipe).
I also took on my neighbours YFZ50 atv, me thinks it needs a starter, gotta confirm so he can order parts.
Gahhhh, can’t drop the spare tire in Truckee. The MF’r is seized up solid. I’ve been soraying the mechanism ib PB Blaster since Sunday, seriously hoping I don’t wreck these flimsy-assed crank tools. I’ve built a stronger pole from a piece of threaded rod, but it too has not been able to break loose the crank. May have to unleash the cutoff tool, drop the tire, free the crank, repair the part I cut up. I swear i dropped this tire in the spring, but the level of stuckness suggests it has never been lowered.
Uggghh that’s brutal. Just stumbled across one of those twist and pray connections on Matts scooter at the main (correction, only) fuse off the battery. The one part of the harness i didn’t tear apart of course.
Nothing has happened on Redee lately, was out on two camping trips in the last 10-days. No complaints, no regrets.
As I continue to trace wires and read diagrams, the more confused I’m getting.
For example, one source I’ve found quite reputable says I need to use the donor “Under Hood fuse box”, but only ONE wire from it needs to go through the firewall into the cab. That wire goes to the starter solenoid, it needs a +12V when in Start. As far as I’ve dug, all the other wires in that fuse box and harness are essentially for the front end lights. IF I ONLY need the one wire, and it is one of the 4 pins within the ALTERNATOR connector (which I’m cutting off to wire into the OEM harness under the hood), why do I need the full rats nest of wires? That has me stumped. Trying to wrap my head around it………
The other wire I am trying to simplify is the main high power out of the ALTERNATOR. Pretty sure I’m just gonna tie into the OEM junction bulkhead on the drivers fender.
Redee hasn’t been helping me much in this endeavour either. Seems she has BOTH 22R and 22RE pigtail connectors throughout, especially behind the dash. Tried for 15 mins to locate the 5-wire A/C harness as per 22RE schematic, to finally say F’it, and just start probing for continuity, locating it in a 4-wire connector for 22R motors.
I’ve also had to un-modify the starter relay, as previously I did the HOT WIRE mod to bypass a bunch of circuit. Anyways, I couldn’t figure out how to keep that mood, and wire up the 3RZ harness.
I also found out why Redee wouldn’t charge very well with the old SBC…. The GM alternator had a big ground wire on the backside of it, which went into a non-OEM sealed 4-pin connector, and then went NOWHERE. Another hour or so trying to understand and trace wires and understand some more, yielded the results that the SBC ALTERNATOR was completely un-grounded…so likely never worked. Shitty part is that when I snapped a belt a few years back, the gauge correctly showed NO CHARGE condition.
Learning lots, wishing I could just make progress, but this puzzle is thick. My brain hurts again.
Oh buddy it gets super overwhelming in no time flat, trying to decide whether to cut or just de-pin is a headache… one way is slightly more reversible than the other, but equally a pain.
Spent 2-hours last night just pouring between two wiring diagrams, muttering to myself and tracing wires with a flashlight. trying to get more comfortable before i tear apart the in-car harness
I found a FSM for the 3rd Gen 4Runner, hopefully that’ll allow me to be fully satisfied and confident to cut a few more wires out of the engine bay fuse box.
The spiders web of obsolete wires on my workbench. 90% have been disconnected, just 4 or 5 I have to decide whether to de-pin or cut.
Attachments:
Gahhhh, 1 day in on wiring and My head is in circles. I’ve started by thinning out the “under hood fuse box” harness, because most of its task is the lighting up front. Well there’s also a wee bit of alternator and starter wiring in that bunch. Trying hard to dig out the wires i need, preserve the rest so perhaps i can sell it off…$5 is better than $0
Anyways, I thought it was going well, but I’m dealing with a self induced spider web, so it’s fairly overwhelming. Still haven’t cut any wires, but have de-pinned and pushed about 50 out of their connectors. Not saying there’s no going back, but it’ll be a significant investment in time to re-pin that fuse box.
Trying to figure out how and where to make the 3RZ alternator talk to the 22RE harness.
A clear change of task with Redee, 3RZ donor harnesses, switches and computers lying all over the place. I compiled and printed 5 pages off Ih8mud, it’s way easier to use in the shop as a paper copy.
I’m going to thin out the harness in the workbench for sure, I only need a couple wires out of it, mainly the alternator and starter relay.
From The body harness on the floor I require about a dozen wires, and a couple of the computers. I think I’m going to thin out what I need, it’ll make tucking what I do need behind the dash a whole lot easier.
Yesterday in The Shop, I also got the Chinese bike up and running. A series of small changes, not sure which was most significant, but the bike fired on first kick.
I lazily cleaned the carb with Karb Kleaner and compressed air, set the idle speed up a lil bit, cleaned and gapped the spark plug, cleaned the air filter, tightened the rear sprocket, lubed the chain, reset the valve clearance, and changed the oil.
Preston is pleased, gonna pick up the beast later today.
Speak of the devil, Matt just wandered over, fired the bike on the first kick, and the weak and grainy horn honked sorta. Success.
Today in The Shop, I used an hour after my lunch today to fix the horn switch on Matts bike.
Late last year he bought a new left side control switch, does the horn turn signals hi/low beam and flash to pass functions. His old switch was smashed and broken and did not control the lights properly, most of the time they did not work…but the horn definitely worked. Cut to spring time and we replaced the damaged switch for the ebay unit, and the headlights work like a charm, but the horn no longer did.
I briefly investigated the old switch and it appeared as though the actual switch part was serviceable.Cut to today, I serviced the switch, cleaning both halves of the contacts. With all the tiny parts and springs back in place, the horn still didn’t honk. Add in a mostly-dead yellow top, and the horn would “click”…sorta. That means the switch is working, just that the two combined batteries weren’t putting out the required 12V to fire off the horn.
Now I’m just waiting for Matt to come over and kick start the old girl so we can give her a stamp of approval.
We had contemplated fixing the switch last night, but it was already too late to begin such a high-precision activity.
