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I loved every minute of the help.
I’m not sure where the switch would be in an auto trans, but the mini truck standards have it on the pedal. I put the 3rz/w59 switch into the 22re/w56 spot, but the pedal I got from @Finn was from an unknown donor. Looks like it is missing a tab, or from a truck that predates clutch safety switches.I’ve since fully installed the throttle pedal, and cable. I replaced the speedo drive cable as well.
Last night with Matts help I was able to set proper torque on the flywheel bolts, which required a two-step tightening, and Matt stopping rotation on the Other side of the crank. I then installed the pilot bearing, clutch and pressure plate.
Was a good night in The Shop. At this point in time the bbq’d pizza was ready, and progress was complete for the night.
Also, a rare picture of me doing work.I’m going to install my ultra gauge display to the left and below the steering wheel in front of the rear windows defrost button. I’ll still be able to activate the button, but i won’t need to (due to fair weather driving only).
I’ve got two quick tasks before i drop the motor in for good. I must repair and locate the 4wd indicator wire, I think it goes through the firewall in the centre somewhere. All i remember is that it used to work, then the chevy melted the wire, so i removed it. But I have no idea of its route from tcase to dash. The other being the same task for the reverse light wire.
Yesterday in The Shop, I had truckee in for some quick jobs.
Recently my exhaust got a lot louder, and on a cold morning i spotted a large leak via big clouds of steam under the passenger floor board. Quick inspection showed the gasket between the Y-pipe and tailpipe had failed almost completely. $16 and a couple new bolts had it sealed up tight again. Unfortunately, the exhaust is still quite loud (in a very unsexy V6 manner) due to the 1/2 dozen holes in the muffler. I’ll attach a picture of the biggest hole. Approximately 3cm dilated.
While i was under truckee, I greased all the drive line zerks.Will prolly give Matt’s 4runner a greasing over the weekend. I borrowed his 4th Gen to cruise to work yesterday and was quite impressed. I think this is the first time i drove it further than the 100 metres been our two houses.
Last night i chopped the throttle cable mounting plate down so it’ll fit under the firewall NVH blanket. I took about 3cms off the tab on the right so it’s bit shorter than tab on left with the rubber stopper.
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Made some progress on Redee with the help of my daughter. She has been asking me to help for weeks, but the exhaust work left no opportunity for small hands.
Regardless, my lil helper was more than willing to cram her body into the drivers foot well to attach the clutch pedal. Together we got the clutch pedal installed, modified a brake return spring to work for the clutch pedal, and installed the master cylinder. I’m at a loss here because I can’t determine where on the clutch pedal, the Safety Switch (for starter) is supposed to make contact. There’s no TAB for the switch to make contact with, so I’m a bit confused.
I started putting the 3RZ throttle came in place, but i have to cut a tab off the bracket first.
We also pulled half the dash so I can replace the speedo drive cable the next time the motor comes out. Hopefully the next time will be the last time.Ending the year on a high note. Last night I re-shaped the brake lines on the firewall, moving the down ward run further outboard (gaining clearance to the header). Glad the lines i ran in 2018 had enough slack to be moved.
This afternoon, Lance got in contact with me to let me know the header has been cut, reshaped and tacked, ready for a test fit. Tomorrow when i grab it I’ll let Lance know if/where any interference exists, and will return it for further mod or final welding.
Got plenty of work to do, and the clock starts ticking at midnight.
Yea I’m definitely not going to part with the ARB, just shelf it till I got more time/desire to rebuild it.
Last night i finished the lunchbox retrofit into the 4.88s. Also replaced the pinion seal which looked like it was leaking. I think the pinion flange (that the drive shaft bolts to) May be worn where the pinion seal rides. There was visible lines, very slight depth to it as well. If it still leaks, I’ll swap that pinion flange with one of the many 3rds I have kicking around.
The backlash on the 4.88 feels all wrong, so I’ll bring it to work tomorrow and borrow a magnetic base dial indicator to shift the ring gear closer to the pinion gear. I believe spec is .006” to .010”, I’m easily at 0.040” now, my calibrated fingers tell me so.
Today i dropped off the long tube header for modification. Lance said he’ll make a change, and just tack it so i can test fit before final welding. I told him I’m in no rush, enjoy Christmas and call me when ready. I am confident, def optimistic.
Glad to hear the new combo seems to be better balanced.
Sounds like Dave got a good deal on the install assist.Weren’t those rear Fox’s put in this past summer before Ardbeg? Or had you only done the front by then?
Mark provided plenty of moral support, pizza, drinks and baked goods. His contribution was plenty. Plus, he was busting his butt on the land cruiser, think it was brakes and fuel system simultaneously.
The ARB has a leaking seal inside somewhere, but until I pull it out I can’t determine what is leaking. With the locker engaged, the pump will cycle every 3-10 minutes as the pressure drops. I think the install guide said anything less than 15-mins between cycles indicates a leak. Was also a pain waiting for it to consider locking, another problem I attribute to low air pressure. Perhaps a good cleaning and re-seal is all it needs. Technically it has been sitting idle for 22 of last 25 years.
I agree on the lunchbox. Not a daily, nor a hardcore wheeler that NEEDS fully locked. Happy medium is plenty for me (i suppose). I could always repair the ARB and swap it in at a later date as well. I just can’t get that 4.10 3rd out of Redee where she’s parked in the shop.
I’ve been struggling with the same damn problem so long, I’ve decided to outsource the solution. I’m going to take the long tube header to the guy who welded up my gas tank, hopefully he wants to do a tougher fab job for me. My suggestion to him will be to cut out the one tube, and weld in a new one that tucks in close behind the other 3. Lots of free space in the engine bay in that area. I will lose ceramic coating, but long tube will be worth it.
Over the past couple nights I’ve been working too refurbish the 4.88 diffs I bought off of Finn in the spring. I started on the front diff, cleaned the exterior, replaced one leaking seal, pounded out the studs…last night I managed to swap my open 4.10 diff out, and put the freshened 4.88 in. I just have 10 of 12 CV bolts to put back in, but it was already TOO LATE in the shop when i got to that point.
I don’t know how I managed to pull the 4.88 diff in Finns driveway, while snowing, on the ground with hand tools, in less time than i got my 4.10 diff out last night. Pretty sure removing the IFS lift kit would have helped, but i was trying too long to remove it as one.Over next couple nights I plan to put a lunch box locker into the rear open 4.88 I bought off Finn. I have the option to run that 4.88 open, with a lunch box, or with an ARB. I will try the lunchbox first, because I’d have to drill s small hole into the 3rd member to run the arb air line. Also, my arb doesn’t work 100% off the time, and i prefer to simplify my traction solution.
Cant believe I missed this update! Big changes indeed buddy….. but aren’t you a little young to be retiring to cottage country? Totally jealous, hope you and the wife are adjusting to your new setup.
What you got planned for winter? More snow removal?
Today in The Shop, I started on the pair of snowblower from my coworker, I drained both carbs and cleaned the jet in the carb with green gas. I wanted to get new spark plugs today, but Davenports closes at noon, not 1 like I thought. Pretty sure i just need a pair of plugs, couple litres of oil for the pair. One of them needs belts put in, but I was given the belts.
My in laws showed up to do a Halloween event with my girls, so I snuck in a quick oil change in my mo-laws Escape.
Out of the shop, I cleaned the eaves and started packing away toys in the shed. The Quadrunner and pair of DR600s packed away nicely.
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Coming soon to The Shop, men doing work.
James asked me for a time slot in the shop this weekend, he wants to swap winter tires onto his DD, and replace a leaking header gasket on the FJ. I told him as long as he helps me push my 600 pound workbench with eff’d up castors out of the way, he’s free to use the space on the weekend.Last week a coworker dropped off a pair of snow blowers to be tuned up. Should be a couple hours work each, few bucks in my pocket, or beers in the fridge.
Sooooooo close to fitting. I can install, start threading nuts on the studs, but I can’t fully close the gap to the cylinder head before contact between header and uca mount. Suuuper close, perhaps tonight i shall defeat this interference. No pictures, they won’t do it Justice haha.
Hate to admit it, but I’m giving up on 2023 as a riding season. It is no one factor, but a few half-assed excuses.
Tires too worn, especially the front.
Ribs still tender from a fall 2.5 weeks ago because of the previously mentioned worn front tire.
Weather is shitty now, cold and rain are not for me.Oh well, there’s always next year. Some new rubber will renew my confidence, and winter will build motivation.
