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I’ve decided to purchase a 2-day pass to Toyota’s Technical Information System so I can download the year and model specific wiring diagrams. I did my best to correlate between what I have, but 3 wires from the ECM I’ve had to add the qualifier **MAYBE** to the function. I really don’t want to screw up the ECM by putting power to the wrong pin, so $25 US is cheap-ish insurance. I’ll also download ALL the manuals for Tacoma, 4Runner and FJ while I’m in there, get my monies worth.
My trusty wiring guide has let me down, not because of the authors fault, but because we harvested different vehicles. I think he used a ‘01 Taco, vs my ‘96 4Runner.
So the pinout diagrams for the IK2 body harness don’t align, and worse yet, of the 3 different service manuals I have, none show my early gen3 wiring harness.
The first mentioned guide is from a Taco which doesn’t match mine. The second reference, My ‘96-‘02 manual uses an ‘02 as reference which doesn’t have an IK2 connector AT ALL. The ‘96 T-100 manual doesn’t show body harnesses at all.So, I will spend some more time trying to cross reference wire colours to the guide, and/or a more manual labour version using my multi meter.
Today in The Shop, another donor has been pushed inside. Matt and I jumped on a donor motorcycle, a 1990 DR650S, which aside from the engine and rear swingarm and brakes, is identical to our bikes. The donor however arrived as a rolling chassis, along with an ‘87 DR600S motor! Wild! My bike is an ‘88, Matts an ‘86, so that motor is a perfect spare for both of us. The best part, the price, we split the $400 asking price.
This will be picked on later, nothing on either of ours bikes is in dire need. So it’ll just lean in a corner till I can pack it away further. Matt still hasn’t seen it in person yet, out of town a few more days.
Today on The Shop, some electrical diagnosis Matts scooter. It’s been blowing it’s only fuse as soon as a fresh one is installed… Matt thinks he may have accidentally hooked up the charger backwards…
I started checking continuity between the battery ground and the fused battery lead off the battery. Shortly after the battery, the voltage regulator takes these two leads And does some wizardry. With the regulator installed i got continuity, with it uninstalled it went away. After some digging, and with a tip from Matt, we found the voltage regulator specs, and confirmed his is indeed pooched.
New one ordered, coming from Texas, hopefully soon. Some glorious weather forecast over the next two weeks.
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Ran some wires in Redee late last night, checked a couple boxes off my list. I decided that 4 gauge wire was indeed overkill, so i bought another set of 6 gauge jumper cables to cut up. Still paid less than what I could, to buy just 10 ft of 6 gauge wire, and ive got a new set of 4 gauge to throw in the trunk.
Anyways, I ran that 6 gauge from the relocated battery to the original fuse box. I ran it in a loom with a run of 14 gauge that will tie the starter solenoid to the connectors in the passenger footwell.
Under the hood, all that remains for wiring is bypassing the charcoal canister solenoids so it won’t throw a code. But that’snot important now. I’m turning my attention towards the connections in the passenger footwell.
Yesterday in The Shop, I diagnosed a “wobbly wheel” condition on my buddy’s atv. Looks like a bad wheel bearing, but not at the same time.
Quick diagnosis started with removing the wheel, and that’s all it took. The brake drum is also a hub, and is supposed to have splines in it. Looking for parts, think we found a hub for each side, waiting on sellers to confirm spline count.
I’ve been spraying the deep creep almost everyday, still no movement, me thinks the mechanism is damaged as opposed to just stuck. Gonna give it another week of deep creepin sprays.
Have been working on atvs the last couple nights, finally got my LT80 sorted out and posted for sale just today. I think last week I got it running, and on the test drive it had lots of rev but no go, like a clutch was stuck, or belt worn thin. It took me a couple nights s to get the clutch cover off, it’s not supposed to come off with the engine still in the chassis. As soon as it cracked loose, a thin black oily substance started ooozing out. Not good for a belt driven system to be in an oil bath.
Anyways, my theory is that the leaking Petcock flooded that clutch housing, and lots of belt slippage turned the gas back and greasy. My fingers are still stained. I cleaned everything with lots of brake clean, then sanded the edges of the belt to take the glaze off. I’ve restored a lot of the speed, but this machine is not for us. Posted on Kijij. Already looking for its replacement
So my 4 gauge jumper cables arrived, and i think “overkill” may just be the definition there.
I measured the diameter of the The wire that I removed, Andy after removing the protective sheath, discovered a splice at the midpoint. One side measured in at about 0.150” for 7 gauge wire, the other half was a measly 0.080” making it 12 gauge. Once again I guess i stress for nothing, what i bought is way more than necessary. A shame to chop up these new jumper cables
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Well there’s a good reason Redee has been parked in the exact same spot for almost 2 full years haha. I usually charge my neighbours, but I’ll take on easy jobs for beers. Bicycles for the kids and wives are free, just gotta soft spot for bicycles.
Today I cut down my spare tire, not my favourite task, hurts me to cut truckee. Tried to scrape rusty off the bolts, got them soaking in PB, maybe I’ll be able to remove the hanger and replace it with another that I have. Also must try to locate that…once upon a time i knew exactly where i put it.
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Went to Sauble Falls provincial park with my family Fri-Sun, went to black lake with my buddies thurs-sun. I’m thoroughly camped for the time being, still jonesing for more though.
We were able to camp on the point, didn’t even see/hear another vehicle till Saturday morning, was so quiet.Made some effort into wiring Redee the other day. Got the alternator connected to oem wiring, and am waiting on 4-gauge wire to finish connecting the relocated battery to the fuse box under hood.
Well another week of speaking in PB has yielded no results, gotta break out the electric knife and metal go-back-together machines.
Last couple of days I’ve been working on atvs. About 2.5 years ago I bought an LT80 for my kids and parked it in the shed. I dragged it out, and spent some money recently. For $100 I bought a new carb, Petcock, starter relay and brake cables. Everything except the relay has arrived, and the atv starts and idles great, takes throttle but has no travel speed at all, like 10km/h screaming like it’s doing 1,000,000. The internet suggests i tear into my clutches, expecting to find the primary clutch either filthy or worn out, the belt very thin or wet, or secondary clutch sticky. Regardless I’m not interested in doing any of this, juuust wanna sell the MF’r. It’s much too loud for in town (thanks to a D&G race pipe).
I also took on my neighbours YFZ50 atv, me thinks it needs a starter, gotta confirm so he can order parts.
Gahhhh, can’t drop the spare tire in Truckee. The MF’r is seized up solid. I’ve been soraying the mechanism ib PB Blaster since Sunday, seriously hoping I don’t wreck these flimsy-assed crank tools. I’ve built a stronger pole from a piece of threaded rod, but it too has not been able to break loose the crank. May have to unleash the cutoff tool, drop the tire, free the crank, repair the part I cut up. I swear i dropped this tire in the spring, but the level of stuckness suggests it has never been lowered.
Uggghh that’s brutal. Just stumbled across one of those twist and pray connections on Matts scooter at the main (correction, only) fuse off the battery. The one part of the harness i didn’t tear apart of course.
Nothing has happened on Redee lately, was out on two camping trips in the last 10-days. No complaints, no regrets.
As I continue to trace wires and read diagrams, the more confused I’m getting.
For example, one source I’ve found quite reputable says I need to use the donor “Under Hood fuse box”, but only ONE wire from it needs to go through the firewall into the cab. That wire goes to the starter solenoid, it needs a +12V when in Start. As far as I’ve dug, all the other wires in that fuse box and harness are essentially for the front end lights. IF I ONLY need the one wire, and it is one of the 4 pins within the ALTERNATOR connector (which I’m cutting off to wire into the OEM harness under the hood), why do I need the full rats nest of wires? That has me stumped. Trying to wrap my head around it………
The other wire I am trying to simplify is the main high power out of the ALTERNATOR. Pretty sure I’m just gonna tie into the OEM junction bulkhead on the drivers fender.
Redee hasn’t been helping me much in this endeavour either. Seems she has BOTH 22R and 22RE pigtail connectors throughout, especially behind the dash. Tried for 15 mins to locate the 5-wire A/C harness as per 22RE schematic, to finally say F’it, and just start probing for continuity, locating it in a 4-wire connector for 22R motors.
I’ve also had to un-modify the starter relay, as previously I did the HOT WIRE mod to bypass a bunch of circuit. Anyways, I couldn’t figure out how to keep that mood, and wire up the 3RZ harness.
I also found out why Redee wouldn’t charge very well with the old SBC…. The GM alternator had a big ground wire on the backside of it, which went into a non-OEM sealed 4-pin connector, and then went NOWHERE. Another hour or so trying to understand and trace wires and understand some more, yielded the results that the SBC ALTERNATOR was completely un-grounded…so likely never worked. Shitty part is that when I snapped a belt a few years back, the gauge correctly showed NO CHARGE condition.
Learning lots, wishing I could just make progress, but this puzzle is thick. My brain hurts again.
