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Nice! I give 5 star ratings to places that screw up, but have great customer service and fix issues immediately.
Same here. We all make mistakes, the A+ recovery effort will be acknowledged.
Hey Steve, easy question for ya. Do bikes have chassis grounds? Or do all the negatives terminate at the battery?
I have been pouring over the wiring diagram, but cannot determine where two “Black w/ White tracer” ground wires go. One is very close to the battery, making me think the ring terminal was cut off just like the positive lead. The other is about 8” away from the battery with a female bullet connector, and no male end in sight. Chassis ground maybe? It runs in the same wiring bundle as the turn signal relay, but the relay is fully satisfied already.Kawis I’ve had have 1 ground that attaches on the ignition coil nut. Only other ground goes to the battery post. There’s a “more power” mod that grounds one of the igniter grounds back to the battery instead of the frame (or wherever it goes…think it’s just where it’s bolted somewhere through a random part).
From what I’ve seen all accessories (lights, signals, horn, etc) have their own ground (male/female) connection.
There may have been a male lead from the battery that connected to that female lead… If it’s (-ve), wouldn’t hurt to run a lead from the battery with a male connector to see what happens and if anything isn’t working.
Can’t remember any other Japanese models because it’s been so long since I’ve had any… Haven’t really torn into the old Honda SL yet and it’s so old, likely not a good comparison to anything. lol
Thanks Steve. Lookin’ at the bike again last night, I think
Perhaps both my unaffiliated grounds may go to the battery. Both wires are very near to the battery, and B/W is -ve, so just gonna put 2&2 together.Hopefully get a chance to play out in the shop tonight.
I have started to lose faith in the fork seal supplier, so I ordered the LAST set of OEM seals on Ebay yesterday. $97 for the 4 seals, where Allballs were half that, and the second supplier just a little more. Of all the parts for my older bike, these fork seals and rear wheel bearings have been the hardest to find. My wheel bearings spun nicely by hand, but I have no idea how many kms on them, and these knobbies I mounted might be a little hard on them. I guess time will tell.
That’s a crazy price for seals! I don’t think I’ve ever paid more than $40 for seals and dust covers combined.
Agreed the price is disgusting, but these are obsoleted and pretty rare, and ebay shipping took a good dip into my pockets. Worldwide Ebay only had 3 dust seals, and I bought two of them. The oil seals were slightly more readily available, and had free shipping. Either way, my pockets still hurt from the abuse.
Found a cool poster on ebay, didn’t buy it.
Today in The Shop, I made new battery leads and then verified the blinker, headlight and horn wiring are working with a test light. Initially I was using one of the turn signal lights as a test light since the bullet ends fit all the circuits, but I soon found out both front indicators don’t work. Also the flasher relay is pooched, but FortNine has a replacement for $10, and there’s a good chance I have the replacement bulbs in the Shop somewhere.
Ordered up a flasher relay, mirrors and spoke skins last night. Spoke skins were a two-fold purchase, 1: cause painting spokes woulda sucked, 2: bump me over the free shipping minimum.
Still gotta buy a horn from Crappy Tire, and dig up some bulbs in The Shop.
Woot woot! My rare like Unicorn tears OEM Dust Seals arrived! Just waiting on the oil seals.
Over the last couple days I got the ebay tach pinned out, and got the front turn signals working again. Simple fix, just a little corrosion at the bulbs.
C’mon oil seals and flasher relay. Hopefully those are the last pieces I need.
Last night in The Shop, my DR600 got tons of attention, and I knocked out a bunch of tasks. Stayed up too late and am paying for it this morning.
Roughly in the order I worked on stuff, my list from last night below
– [x] Clean fork seal clips
– [x] Test & repair brake light
– [x] Test and repair plate light
– [x] Rewire both rear indicators
– [x] Test bRake switches
– [x] Repair kill switch wire
– [x] Mount front brake master cylinder
– [x] reWire ebay gauges
– [x] Test & replace headlight bulb
– [x] Install wiring final
– [x] Install tail section and rear fender
– [ ] Install body panels
– [x] Clean front caliper
– [x] Replace front brake pads
– [x] Install hornIn my pictures below, I believe everything that’s bolted on can stay that way. And the gauge pinning and harness repair was a complete success. The olny poop part is that the tach will only ever read 0 as it’s mechanically driven where the DR uses a coil signal somehow. No big deal.
I have an ambitious plan (err, more like idea) to retrofit my OEM tach into the ebay cluster. Physically it should fit, all come down to whether my OEM tach still works, and if I can get the ebay tach taken apart without china plastic exploding everywhere.
Flasher relay, spoke skins and mirrors should be arriving in the mail today, just in time for another lockdown. At least I’ve got something to keep me occupied for a little while.
Stay tuned.
you could try baking the tach in the oven to release the glue, like they do with the headlamps.
Or just use a hacksaw to and cut, then silicon…
Good ideas on disassembly. Once I can test and confirm the old tach works, I’ll proceed to remove the ebay tach and explore. The chrome trim ring on the front spins around pretty easy, could prolly pop it off and start disassembly through the face of the gauge.
My Plan is to test fire the motor on Sunday. Feeling a little anxious already, even though I heard it run very briefly in August before I started disassembly.
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