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Went to Sauble Falls provincial park with my family Fri-Sun, went to black lake with my buddies thurs-sun. I’m thoroughly camped for the time being, still jonesing for more though.
We were able to camp on the point, didn’t even see/hear another vehicle till Saturday morning, was so quiet.Made some effort into wiring Redee the other day. Got the alternator connected to oem wiring, and am waiting on 4-gauge wire to finish connecting the relocated battery to the fuse box under hood.
So my 4 gauge jumper cables arrived, and i think “overkill” may just be the definition there.
I measured the diameter of the The wire that I removed, Andy after removing the protective sheath, discovered a splice at the midpoint. One side measured in at about 0.150” for 7 gauge wire, the other half was a measly 0.080” making it 12 gauge. Once again I guess i stress for nothing, what i bought is way more than necessary. A shame to chop up these new jumper cables
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Ran some wires in Redee late last night, checked a couple boxes off my list. I decided that 4 gauge wire was indeed overkill, so i bought another set of 6 gauge jumper cables to cut up. Still paid less than what I could, to buy just 10 ft of 6 gauge wire, and ive got a new set of 4 gauge to throw in the trunk.
Anyways, I ran that 6 gauge from the relocated battery to the original fuse box. I ran it in a loom with a run of 14 gauge that will tie the starter solenoid to the connectors in the passenger footwell.
Under the hood, all that remains for wiring is bypassing the charcoal canister solenoids so it won’t throw a code. But that’snot important now. I’m turning my attention towards the connections in the passenger footwell.
My trusty wiring guide has let me down, not because of the authors fault, but because we harvested different vehicles. I think he used a ‘01 Taco, vs my ‘96 4Runner.
So the pinout diagrams for the IK2 body harness don’t align, and worse yet, of the 3 different service manuals I have, none show my early gen3 wiring harness.
The first mentioned guide is from a Taco which doesn’t match mine. The second reference, My ‘96-‘02 manual uses an ‘02 as reference which doesn’t have an IK2 connector AT ALL. The ‘96 T-100 manual doesn’t show body harnesses at all.So, I will spend some more time trying to cross reference wire colours to the guide, and/or a more manual labour version using my multi meter.
I’ve decided to purchase a 2-day pass to Toyota’s Technical Information System so I can download the year and model specific wiring diagrams. I did my best to correlate between what I have, but 3 wires from the ECM I’ve had to add the qualifier **MAYBE** to the function. I really don’t want to screw up the ECM by putting power to the wrong pin, so $25 US is cheap-ish insurance. I’ll also download ALL the manuals for Tacoma, 4Runner and FJ while I’m in there, get my monies worth.
I ordered the subscription friday evening, it expired last night, downloaded some 1,700 separate documents, most in a Marathon session from 8pm -3am last night. I had false impressions that it was gonna be quick or easy to harvest a whole vehicles worth of documents, but I had my eyes opened quickly.
Anyways, I started with the documents I needed to correct the wiring legend I was referring by getting full wiring diagram of a ‘964Runner and ‘01 Tacoma. From there I captured everything 22RE related, then almost everything for the 2013 Tacoma, then almost everything electrical/wiring for James’ ‘08 FJ.
I have finished cross referencing the two documents for the ECM wiring, and am 2/3 finished the IK2 (my II3) body harness. Some excel charts and screen shots are helping to keep me straight.
The TIS subscription has now birthed actual physical results in my project!
With the really tedious cross referencing over, I confidently made a couple excel charts to compare what my reference doc says VS what i actually have, both pin position and wire colours. Huge pain in the ass, but this .xlsx is worth keeping.
With my E9, II3 and Data Link 3 wires identified, I started actual work to de-pin the useless crap, and cut the connectors out of the interior harness with plenty of OEM wire tails hanging out.
So now I’m left with an interior conversion harness that consists of about 15 wires total, where about an hour ago it was more like 15 – 30 pounds of wires. The portion of the donor harness that remains, unfortunately has no resale value, but Ill try anyways. I’m sure the relay boxes and junction blocks could be of use to somebody eventually.
Hopefully by weekends end, I’ e got the conversion harness wrapped up and starting to go into Redee. That’d be huge.
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Pics all too big, trying again
Sent an inquiry off to Toyota Fiberglass for a LEFT side battery tray. Currently my battery is sitting on nothing, held down by nothing. I was trying to think of something better than 2×6 and ratchet strap for the two “nothings” in question. ~$100 isn’t too shabby for a buy once cry once solution.
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Last week I bought the Fiberglass battery tray off ToyotaFiberglasd, less than $200 to my door after shipping and tax is OK.
Last night on Redee I think I finished the 3RZ integration wiring. I’m pretty nervous to hook up power to the truck. Gonna do it in stages, and not connect the ECU until I’m assured I didn’t mess up a power or ground somewhere.
I still have to mount the ECU under the dash, kinda limited on location because the leads coming from the engine bay are short. Will fab up a bracket soon enough.
Well last night I mustered up all my courage, and attached the battery to Redee. Thank God nothing started melting. However that’s the end of the good news.
No crank, and no fuel pump were my condition once i finally twisted the ignition.
No fuel I figured out was because my Circuit opening relay to which I was getting fuel pump power was in a tote rather than under the dash. So I verified it works, installed it, re-wired my 3RZ leads accordingly.
As for no crank, I have more digging to do tonight. Gonnabe Checking voltage at the ECU, perhaps one of my “always hot” or “IGN 2” or “while cranking” wires are incorrect.
Last night, I got Redee to crank with fuel pump using the key in the ignition!
I don’t know which of my corrective actions allowed the motor to crank, because during one of my checks I disconnected the starter solenoid wire and forgot to reconnect it for about an hour and 10 small fixes. Anyways once I reconnected the solenoid wire, Redee started cranking on the first twist.I have a couple more wiring tasks ahead of me; mount the ECU, run the O2/reverse/4wd harness over the trans and into place.
My next major task is building an exhaust front to back. And the final task will be swapping the rear third member to the 4.88 lunchbox sitting on the shop floor.
Uggghhhh, this ECU refuses to fit into a spot I deem “preferable”. The ECU has detachable (and modifiable) mounting brackets booked on either side, but there’s not much free space for mounting to Redee. I think I’ll give it one more nights worth of attempt before I break out the industrial strength zipties.
I got distracted (somehow) while routing the O2 harness, and started to investigate where the donor Reverse and 4WD indicator light wires enter the cab, and unfortunately I may have removed those wires already, but I’ll try again to pin out continuity tonight. It’ll save me from running a few wires from the trans/tcase up into the cab myself.
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