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So I’ve been waiting since early January for a cable to arrive from ebay, it’s purpose is to provide power to some Universal DVD screens we bought for Sam’s Focus 3 years ago, via the USB socket outlet I put next to the rear window control switches. Fast forward, the cable finally arrived on Friday, and with help from my daughters we tested it in the shop. All plugged in, and no power, what gives??
USB provides 5V power. Screens require 12V power. This cable I’ve been waiting for since Jan was never going to work. D’oh!!
Plan B: re-install Redee’s original 12V cigarette lighter somewhere in the dash, and use the cable that came with the screens….that I’ve had all along.
Had another helper in my shop today figure out Truckee’s sticking passenger side drum. Lots of hums & haws, figured out the cable sheathing was binding where it enters the drum backing plate. Basically, the return spring inside the drum couldn’t overpower the drag of the sheathing in its bore. I chipped off the plastic sheathing from the cable, and everything was immediately happier.
Cons: the steel cable is now exposed, will likely rust inside the sheathing. The cable is looser fit to backing plate, moisture may enter more easily. I globbed some brake lube on it, hoping it’ll tack up and keep water out.This fall I’ll service the rear brakes with new shoes, drums turned, and a new E-brake cable on the passenger side. I built a RockAuto cart for $170 all-in, but not gonna order now.
See pictures. Good Drivers side shown first.
The pass side cable was already showing some rust under the sheathing I stripped, perhaps the rust made the sheathing swell and interfere to its clearance hole.Usually the e-brake stops working all together when it gets to that point. When you go to release, the handle goes in, but the cable stays put… Isn’t redee automatic? You don’t need that thing, except to pass safety.
I replaced both e-brake cables on my 09 Taco back in 2013. They both had casing broken at the drum from the stress of the lift and heave wheeling back then… Not a bad job at all.
For me to do it leisurely in my garage;
1) less than half the dealer book time for a mechanic to do it
2) only $300 in parts as compared to dealer estimate of >$1000
3) I found the almost non-existent brake shoes they didn’t tell me about…That is on the Tacoma, I still don’t have a unique build thread for her. Keep lumping it in here haha.
You called it exactly, handle goes in, brake didn’t release. With help from my 4.5 y/o, I learned that the cable wasn’t moving either way, but wedged firmly in place.E-brakes are only supposed to seize from being un-used. I use mine everyday, shoulda stayed free. RockAuto has Raybestos full drum brake innards and cables for under $200.
I’ll put in a cable when I do shoes in the fall. Leading shoe has about 1.5mm at its lowest spot, tons left.
Redee is an auto, and I have only used e-brake two or three times since the safety haha. It also doesn’t release fully, but my trouble comes from the distribution on the rear axle. One side will release, and put slack in cable, other won’t release. I crawl under the back and touch the slackened area with one finger, and it snaps into neutral position. I’ve got a brand new T-case e-brake in a box, just unmotivated to install it. When I move forward with a transmission decision, the t-case brake will go in.
I’m gonna have to order the new E-fans, my fan is definitely giving up. I’m gonna order a new 16”, as well as a pair of 9’s that I’ll put on a separate switch.
Steve, I looked on ebay for a rheostat, but they all cost more than the fans, maybe something I’ll upgrade to in the future.
Did an oil change in Redee, think it had been almost 2-years, but less than 5,000 km. I had hoped the fresh oil would help Redee shed a few degrees of engine temp, but that did not happen.
Today I cruised to Orangeville on purely paved roads, with unlocked hubs, and still was running hotter than I would like. It’s not the actual temp that concerns me, but the inability to bring the temps down that gets me.
So, I ordered three new fans today off ebay. one 16″ as a direct replacement PUSHER, and two 9″ which I’ll put on the PULL side on a separate switch. Really hope I won’t need the 9s, but a little extra cooling couldn’t hurt. Thinking of a way to put it on a timer, so I can run the fans for 1-2 mins after I turn off the ignition. Again, this may be overkill once the old dying fan comes out.
My neighbour’s van has an electric fan that runs after she turns it off. Sounds like a hovercraft.
The fans on the 51 shut off with the car.
Hopefully it works, so many of my toyotas had been plagued with heating issues or messed up temp gauges it’s really frustrating
Redees fan will run for about 3-5 seconds after you kill the engine. Almost enough time to feel the airflow through the rad by hand. Thinking 60 seconds would go a long way, but not sure if it’ll be necessary.
Evan, I hear you on crappy gauge, this is the first one I can trust (only because the FiTech has a digital readout).
I’d like to put some heat escapes, louvers or something to allow heat out, but I don’t wanna put holes in the hood. I think @ToyotaTom had a similar dilemma on the Turd.
Scored a sweet kijiji deal, roughly 75’ of exhaust wrap for $20! The first 50 feet are 1” wide, new in the package, the remaining 25 feet are 2” wide and ‘lightly used’ says the seller. Other than being cut in half, looks new to me. Only had to travel to CFB Borden, abouts 1/2h each way.
I know what I’m working on tonight!
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My excitement was purely out of ignorance, that task was f’in torture. In hindsight, I was excited for the end result, not the process haha.
I used the 25ft length on the drivers side, starting at the rad side of the header, and wrapped down past the bellhousing.
The passenger side I used the 50ft length, and wrapped down to the trans pan.
My timestamps on the pictures tell me it took AT LEAST 2-hours, not including clean up. Those fibres were so itchy.
I’m not gonna use the phrase “never again”, but I don’t plan on doing that again for “a long f’in time”.
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