Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Last night in The Shop, Matt and I put the scooter mostly back together. The gasket kit arrived from eBay, so the final reduction gearbox could be reassembled and filled with 90ml of 10W40. The new belt fit like a charm, and everything sounds whisper quiet.
Came to the point where we tried to test fuel, and she just chugged and chugged but no fire. Checked spark, NOTHING. Tried a new plug, still nothing. Started testing as per the service manual, and the coil is pooched. Calls for 0.1-0.3 ohms resistance, we’re seeing 3.6 ohms, more than 10x the spec limit.
No idea how the coil eff’d itself by sitting for 2 weeks, but a new one has been ordered already.Perhaps tonight Matt and I will try to repair the fairing with a hot stapler and two part epoxy. Currently 30y/o duct tape was attempting to hold it all together, but that was insufficient.
I started fitting in the cone filter, but got stuck between a fuse box and a rad hose. My options are too move the fuse box towards the firewall, or shim the air filter closer to the rad.
My plan is to fab a spacer between the MAF sensor and adapter. Need about 1-2”I spent last night watching a movie with me lady, so clearly nothing got done on Redee.
Today i bought some gasket paper for the MAF adapter, and enough 1/4” fuel hose to connect the fuel return line to the original hard lines on the firewall.
For the fuel supply line, I struck out at the local shop trying to buy 5/16” high pressure hose. When i got home from work I tore into my hose and tube stash, and located the 10ft roll of 5/16” hard line I bought to plumb the SBC back in 2018. Anyways, rather than replace the entire length of the rubber hose, I intend to extend an intermediate hard line (about 6” long) with a new section long enough to get my existing hose to the drivers side inner fender. Pretty hard to explain, but I’m $0 for a hard line as opposed to about $75 for new a new rubber hose.
Have to wait and see what I accomplish during my next shop session.
The boat from China arrived, and the supply chain delivered my MAF sensor adapter. Perhaps tonight I’ll mock it up, and figure out what kind of bracket I need to fabricate to mount it to the inner fender.
Tonight I’m also going to cut a couple inches off my fuel supply and return lines, so I can buy 10-15 ft of each diameter.
Attachments:
One of my daughters helped me spoon a fresh tire onto the rear rim of mats scooter with a new tube. Hoping it holds 30psi overnight. The tire is so narrow there’s hardly any space to keep the tube out of the way of the rim, tire bead and spoons. Think I’m just paranoid.
That eBay gasket en route is one of the last pieces we’re waiting on.Tonight in The Shop, along with working on Redee, I got to the 1-yard line in Matts scooter repair. I pushed a new bearing into the bore of the driven clutch, and a new seal, as well as put the new seal in for the reduction gear shaft.
All we are waiting on to be fully mechanically repaired is the gasket for the reduction gearbox. Ebay says it is at the shopping centre already.
Those new bearings are sooo smooth. Add in the new oem drive belt matt just bought, and the new spark plug from this millennia, this little scooter is gonna fly! (as much as any 40-year old 50cc scooter could possibly fly)Well I got the new fuel filter and rad hoses installed. The lower rad hose seems dangerously close to the fan, I suppose that’s where a shroud could act as a physical barrier.
I still have to make the 3rz talk to my heater core, but that’ll be my next night in The Shop.
I decided to keep the original flex fuel line into the fuel filter original, and add a small flare to a chunk of the donor trucks body hard line. This way should I need to remove the engine again in the future, I can separate a union on the inner fender, vs pulling in flex line off the inlet of the fuel filter. Saving myself a future headache.
I have located the fuel return line on both Redee and the 3rz, just gotta connect then another night.Attachments:
Last night in The Shop, Matt scraped the last of the gasket off the Honda case.
At work yesterday I used the arbor press to push out the driven clutch shaft and roller bearing out. Quick pick brought the seal out of the bore. Matt now has both seals in his pocket to source locally, and then the scooter can go back together.
The seal is unobtainable, so we’ll have to RTV this back together.Attachments:
The new rad hoses and fuel filter have arrived at my local Davenports for pickup today, hopefully tonight I can throw them all in and keep plugging away on the cooling system.
Last night i determined that my Princess auto flare kit is not strong enough to add a single male flare to the OEM Fuel hard line, so I’ll prolly just add an extra high-pressure hose clamp for redundancy (safety).Worked on Redees cooling system last night. I unboxed and test fit the new HD rad, then decided it fit so well I sent the bolts home. This rad is gorgeous, 2” thick, all aluminum, and appears to be a perfect fit. Unfortunately it came with additional output bungs welded to the bottom, so Ill just loop a hose between them to close that bypass. In the future i could use it for hot water system, or reintroduce the rear heater…but Redee is a summer machine so rear heat not a priority.
Today I ordered new Upper and lower rad hoses because they looked original and kinda swollen. Last night when i pulled the old hoses I cleaned corrosion off the hose inlets to the motor. The upper hose will be a couple days to arrive, so Ill keep working elsewhere in cooling system. Perhaps the heater core plumbing. Basically I have all the hoses and bits I need, just have to rearrange and shorten them accordingly.
Hopefully this system will be buttoned up this week.I’ll move onto the power steering after. Really I just need to get the high pressure hose flared with the proper fitting for the first gen steering gear. Prolly just gonna harvest the fitting off the power steering hose I had mattered to the SBC power steering pump.
Yesterday in The Shop, truckee got some attention.
I successfully replaced the serpentine belt and idler bearings, hardest part was not breaking the bolts that hold the “skid plate” in place. I bought the replacement parts as a kit from Gates in May 2021… so i guess they were over due.
Next up I rotated the tires, cleaned the mating surfaces of the hub and rims. My rims are cruising away badly, likely replace them with my next set of tires.
I then moved onto servicing the brakes to reduce freeplay and vibration. I flushed about 1L of fresh fluid through the rear brake cylinders.
Went to the front pass side and within about 1 minute i broke off the bleeder screw. 🤬🤬. I voted against repairing that and/or making it worse because I don’t have a new screw here in house. So I pulled the brake pins out, cleaned and re-greased both sides.
Last order of buisness, crack a beer and tidy up. LOTS of spilt brake fluid to clean up, used 1/4 bag of absorbant to tidy. I have to buy a better universal fit attachment to James’ power bleeder, think I spilt more than I flushed through.I put an hour into Matts scooter last night in The Shop.
Over the course of an hour we drank s couple beers, are some chips and replace the rear “wheel bearing”. Was a pretty uneventful fix, but stressful… the 40-year old aluminum case has a bunch of hairline cracks in it, so in really didn’t want to smack it at all. I used a slide hammer to pull the bearing and seal in one shot, and a 15/16” socket to drive the bearing in. Matt had the old seal in his pocket, in an attempt to get one locally. The ultra rare bearings were needed was easily found for $4 about 3 mins from home. Matt splurged for the premium bearings at $14 each. Plan is to bring the other bearing to work and push it out with the arbor press… i really don’t want to damage the case, or race, or driven clutch shaft.
Don’t ask me why, but for some reason I offered up my labour services free of charge on this unit…but with that in mind Ive also outsourced the worst jobs… degreasing, and old gasket scraping.Matt is out of town a couple days, so I’m switching gears and Going to be doing overdue maintenance on Truckee for a few hours today. Brake service, brake fluid flush, tire rotation, serp belt and idlers are in the task list today. If time permits, I’ll start changing diff oil as well. Think i have about 5-6 hours where my family is going to gramas house.
Last night in The Shop, Matt and I worked in the Spree a little bit. Some wins some losses.
Win, new tube went in perfectly this time, no snags. The old tube had a pin hole where it got pinched, a tear from where i stabbed it during removal, and was generally a little thin around the edges.
Losses, the new belt was too wide and too long to fit, the “wheel bearing” has def failed, and struggles to find oil seals continues.
I think matt only needs to buy two bearings And two seals to be up and running again.Gahh, nearly all my pictures from last night were very blurry…dunno how that happened 🤪
Attachments:
The difficulty is that the rear bearings are in the engine case as opposed to the rim itself. The rim attaches firmly to a splined shaft that floats on bearings. Just means we gotta get more invasive in the surgery to make that rear wheel stop wobbling.
I spooned a new tire into the freshly painted front rim Monday night, however I pinched the tube during re-install. She did not hold any pressure… i don’t feel too bad, the tubes might be 40-years old, but they are def cheap to replace at $10.40 each.
