July 17, 2018 at 4:30 pm #206863
Well as the new owner of the big 4 runner that’s been around for years it’s shows it’s age and it’s many many many hands on owners with different ideas on what works and how to do things … going thru it all slowly and surely I’ve already fixed rear window wiring and switch , tightened up a wheel bearing , wired up a horn , installed a new radio , now onto the dreaded Toyota top of gas tank ooze… it appears to have been coated in something way back to help “hide” this leaky seeped by tank been reading up a lot about the rear f150 tank swap and not sure I want to go down that road wondering if anyone has any other suggestions a new tank is gonna be $300 plus probably sending units .July 18, 2018 at 5:39 pm #206865finn the kareilian vikingKeymaster
hey nick, i’ve got exactly what you need for your fuel tank! 21 gallon chevy van tank with ‘yota fuel pump installed. hangs up in the spare tire cavity. fill tube moved to fill from the back. think about it n let me know if you’re interestedJuly 23, 2018 at 9:02 am #206895
Sent you a message very interestedJuly 23, 2018 at 1:06 pm #206896
Well found where the tank leaks the Swiss cheese surrounding the fuel level is probably a good start anyone else with first gens ever notice the drive shaft or leaf pack hits there tanks ? I think it’s time this rig gets a tank relocateJuly 23, 2018 at 10:15 pm #206897Slick_YotaKeymaster
wow, that’s fugly!July 25, 2018 at 10:02 pm #206910
Sorry I never saw this thread. Nice to see you’ve gotten a jump on maintenance.
the leaf or driveshaft doesn’t hit on my first Gen but the front bolt on the F150 springs I put in does hit the tank. The the whole fuel pump unit doesn’t last long in the salt.July 26, 2018 at 10:08 pm #206913
So old tank out and draining it’s started to piss all over the garage at the seams as you can see from pictures the drive shaft rub and the dent and fold in the seem from the leaf pack clamp . So been talking with a buddy who built a truggy a few years back and I think I’m going to remove the body lift just trying to decided if mounting the f150 tank high and moving cargo area floor up or moving the shock mount down and leaving tank lower and more opportunity for collision course with ground .. rock sliders and bumpers are going to be adjusted and re mounted with better bracing and structure plating, rock sliders bend in the frame a lot under load , and planning on removing number 2 and 4 leafs from the packs to get so more flex and a little less height . Numbering them from smallest (bottom) to biggest (top/main leaf)July 27, 2018 at 6:33 am #206918
Literally everything you mentioned is exactly what I wanted to do that truck when I saw it. I rebuilt and lifted the floor in my orange 85 and it was kind of a pain in the ass.
If the floor is solid in that truck, I probably wouldn’t touch it.
I’d Build a mount and skid plate for for the tank under the floor at the back, lower the shock mount and move the sliders and bumpers down. It’s quite a bit of work no matter how you slice it.
If you’re worried about lowering the mount because of shock length you could always move the tabs on your axle to the back instead of on topJuly 28, 2018 at 10:43 pm #206922
So despite everything I’ve read I got the extra vent hole welded shut and a filler neck vent tube welded in and a charcoal canister vent all welded into the f150 tank got my mounting idea set in stone and got about 50 percent done before the wife told me to shut it down before the neighbours call the cops the down fall of living right in town . More pictures to come going to make slot of you mad going to be adding s filler / gas door to the drivers side of the 4 runner behind the rear wheelAugust 11, 2018 at 11:15 am #206976
Wow the top of that 4Runner tank looks much uglier on my desktop monitor than it ever did on my iPhone, or when my head was wedged between that tank and frame rail. That definitely explains why the tank leaked after I overfilled it before winter storage.
You decide where the F150 tank will be hung yet? Do you know the total capacity of that tank?
Evan, thanks for the wisdom, I’ll be sure to protect the tank I have in the ’86 from accumulating mud and gunk on top.September 3, 2018 at 11:06 am #207075
So after weeks of the 18gallon ford tank in and out chasing leaks a brand new 18 gallon rear ford tank is on order to be installed hopefully for the last time. Being able to get out for a few shake downs inbetween massive fuel leaks had to use the winch once and possibly discovered either valve float or the 87 computer has no rev limiter in it ? I feel like the under powered 22re may become an ever growing issue with a lot of mechanical background and motor swaps what are every ones opinions on either rebuilding one of the many 22r /re blocks I have around to a mild performance build or preforming a motor swap to something along the lines of a Volkswagen tdi or a 2.2 ecotec I feel like this rig would be amazing with somewhere along the lines of 150hp/lbft at the flywheel . Wiring is a massive issue that is more and more showing it’s ugly face . This winter will be sad to see it all torn apart for the body lift removal rock slider and bumper re mounting and leaf pack adjustments hoping to get the roof of the runner down 5″ so it will squeeze into my shed I call a garage. Yea I know it’s a shame to “lower” this rig but being . A family toy I feel like its height will lead to a roll over and not something I’d like to put my family thru .. opinions on the cage would be helpful too. Should it be tied into the frame ? As it is now it’s only bolted to the rusty floorSeptember 3, 2018 at 3:29 pm #207076
Hey Nick, I think the Yoda has a computer from a 22R carbed motor in it. It may not have rev limiter, or perhaps the controlling method does not carryover to the EFI motor.
Historically the 22re is rock solid. Gotta rev them up a bit for power, but as reliable as they come. Pretty sure your motor has a performance camshaft, and the long tube header. Maybe the extra intake length of snorkel is creating the sensation of valve float you’re feeling. Bone stalk, brand new a 22re has 140ft/lbs, around 116hp…not sure actual impact of the cam&header
A lot of the VW diesels are mechanical. Your only wiring would be for gauges and fuel transfer.
Your winter plans sound like mine from last year, but with limited welding skills I didnt get much accomplished. Looking forward to seeing the changes.September 5, 2018 at 11:29 am #207083
Definitely no shame to lower it! It is wayyyyy too high. Motor swaps are tough, I would stay toyota if you want dependability. The vw is an ok option but you’ve got a pretty heavy rig. I would do a 3rz or a 3.4 from a Tacoma/4runner. But wiring is a pain, there’s a million write ups on it at leastSeptember 29, 2018 at 7:40 pm #207216
Hey Nick, hows the new fuel tank holding up? Get the sending unit and filler neck figured out yet?
Check out all the glamour shots of Yoda in the wheeling pics and vids thread.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.